MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

Endless Summer

2024.02.01

Text by Francesca Fontanesi

The new SS24 campaign by Miu Miu tells a story of contrasts and immediacy, of women in motion, with bags overflowing with everyday objects that embrace the complexity of the present. The narrative is woven into the surfaces, and Miu Miu’s style, irreverent yet aware, turns its gaze outward and to those rebellious moments that alternate with a soft feminine energy.

A vivid sense of beauty and of the beautifully real.

 

 

 

Character is not lacking. A prototype wardrobe, firmly anchored in the present, encompasses swimwear, sportswear, evening dresses, lightweight wool and cotton drill tailoring, elaborate embroideries, soft leather, and suede. There are also low-waisted pleated skirts with high leather belts cinching the hips, ruffled skirts, overcoats in golden damask fabric, day dresses embellished with rhinestones, jackets, bermuda shorts, culottes, and drawstring pieces. Presented in the new Miu Miu SS24 campaign, the materials have undergone washes and alterations, proudly bearing the marks. Light cottons and linens are treated to evoke precious vintage pieces. Memories are traced on surfaces and imprinted in seams. Value is given to the story, perpetuating it and learning from it. Purpose and function are subverted. Pairings surprise: a swimsuit with a beaded cocktail dress; a striped T-shirt with a gold brocade skirt. The meaning of the garments creates harmony. The style is irreverent but always aware, expressing the complexity, layering, and diversity of today’s world. Time drags slowly and flies away. Expressions and gestures change. The spirit is outwardly rebellious one moment, gently introspective the next. Dominating is a mood of positivity, joy – of lives lived to the fullest.

Chic, seemingly disordered, crafted with washes, tears, suedes, and marked leathers—an amplification of time passing that expresses previous use, existing love. Not by chance, May Andersen, Emma Corrin, Angel Haze, Lexie Liu, Demi Singleton, and Cailee Spaeny are the protagonists of the press campaign for the new Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 collection. A series of bold portraits that stand out for their simplicity and vitality, captured in a deliberately indefinable space. Guiding the narrative is the sun of Los Angeles, casting shadows from various angles along its daily path, while the ocean froths outside. The cast is diverse, featuring actresses, singers, and models in motion; the bags overflowing with personal effects are a complete package of luxury and utility. Are they about to leave or return home? Headed to the beach or coming back? Each possesses a unique beauty, exuding a sense of immediacy, individual physicality, and mastery of their attire. A radical expansion replaces rigid paradigms.

For further information miumiu.com

Creative freedom

2024.02.28

A collection that rethinks the concept of fashion as a manifestation of power and full representation of creativity, investigating the historical legacy and future of femininity. The looks in Dior’s FW24 collection convey the radiant power of a pluralistic, autonomous and versatile femininity, reactivating that key moment of creative freedom of which Miss Dior is the emblem.

CULTURE

ANNIE ERNAUX AND PHOTOGRAPHY

2024.02.28

In Exteriors (Journal du dehors), Annie Ernaux immerses herself in the interactions at the margins of daily life. Her words become the focal point of a visual reflection unfolding through a selection of images from the MEP collection in Paris. These photographs merge with Ernaux’s text, creating a social and political narrative.

NEWS

We Are Not Going Back

2024.02.27

The new single released by Wolfgang Tillmans is accompanied by a video directed by Tillmans himself, using 80 years old footage by his grandfather Karl R. Tillmans filmed in New York 1939 and Western Germany 1949.

PARIS

TRANSPARENCIES

2024.02.27

Tulle, velvet, organza, and chiffon; the clues to a journey through the twenty-first century sexual revolution under the gaze of the Couturier who left his mark on an era. The new exhibition at the Yves Saint Laurent museum in Paris reconstructs the iconic textile innovation of the 1960s made by Yves and more.

COLLECTION

SPIRIT

2024.02.25

The Fall Winter 2024 collection by Maximilian Davis is an interpretation of the 1920s through a modern lens, particularly inspiring as it offers a new perspective on the elegance and rebellion of that era.