Anthony Vaccarello turns to a cool ease where fresh proportions and a considered languid silhouette are defined by structured tension.

The radical elan of Art Deco, which has always guarded a special place in Yves Saint Laurent’s universe, permeates the Winter 2022 women’s collection. The reference is not literal, informing the show more in essence and overall outline than in direct quotations. Anthony Vaccarello got inspired by Nancy Cunard, the independent-minded activist publisher who dressed audaciously ahead of her time, who gave a masculine wardrobe her own indelible imprint; and found his own accent to take Cunard’s intrepid ethos and embed it in our contemporary codes through fresh proportions and a considered languid silhouette defined by structured tension. The signature pieces of the house take on a dramatic new shape enveloping a long fluid line underneath. Yves Saint Laurent outerwear items are at the core and morph from paletot-style coats, to flawless black tuxedos and narrow leather coats, that attenuate downward, paired with flute-like dresses in delicate fabrics. Volume is shifted for a strong sloped shoulder, while fluttering flashes of transparency and unexpected footwear add lightness. A subtle and strict use of color further enhance the powerful essentiality of the collection and Saint Laurent sheer magnitude. Anthony Vaccarello proved to be confident enough for fresh innovation and yet capable of honouring the Maison timeless codes and quality. We can’t deny falling for his recent hints of sexiness, micros proportions and high heels, but this cool ease the Creative Director turned to is something we were waiting to abandon to. 

“A subdued matte palette hints at a moment of reflection. Proving that restraint need not be joyless, this is a quietly poetic showing, shot through with bursts of unabashed resolve and verve.”



Creative freedom


A collection that rethinks the concept of fashion as a manifestation of power and full representation of creativity, investigating the historical legacy and future of femininity. The looks in Dior’s FW24 collection convey the radiant power of a pluralistic, autonomous and versatile femininity, reactivating that key moment of creative freedom of which Miss Dior is the emblem.




The Fall Winter 2024 collection by Maximilian Davis is an interpretation of the 1920s through a modern lens, particularly inspiring as it offers a new perspective on the elegance and rebellion of that era.




Like the scorched landscape that offers its harsh yet fertile land, Bottega Veneta’s FW collection invites reflection and hope. It is a testament to the inner strength that emerges from the trial by fire, conveying a message of resilience and rebirth as life’s challenges are faced.


Elegance and Tradition


To celebrate and renew the invitation to an open dialogue with the city of Milan, Loro Piana FW24 reiterates its delicate and calm language of making fashion, a Loro Piana method, that is, the absolute search toward the consistency of product history and above all a sustainable and reliable fashion idea.


Nightly Tribute


Emporio Armani pays homage to a luminous night sky, quilted with stars and ruled by a shining moon. The FW 24 collection captures a chromatic sensation and translates it into wearable forms.