MANIFESTO

#61

ART NOW

MASTERFUL INNOVATION

2022.03.02

by MADDALENA IODICE

Anthony Vaccarello turns to a cool ease where fresh proportions and a considered languid silhouette are defined by structured tension.

The radical elan of Art Deco, which has always guarded a special place in Yves Saint Laurent’s universe, permeates the Winter 2022 women’s collection. The reference is not literal, informing the show more in essence and overall outline than in direct quotations. Anthony Vaccarello got inspired by Nancy Cunard, the independent-minded activist publisher who dressed audaciously ahead of her time, who gave a masculine wardrobe her own indelible imprint; and found his own accent to take Cunard’s intrepid ethos and embed it in our contemporary codes through fresh proportions and a considered languid silhouette defined by structured tension. The signature pieces of the house take on a dramatic new shape enveloping a long fluid line underneath. Yves Saint Laurent outerwear items are at the core and morph from paletot-style coats, to flawless black tuxedos and narrow leather coats, that attenuate downward, paired with flute-like dresses in delicate fabrics. Volume is shifted for a strong sloped shoulder, while fluttering flashes of transparency and unexpected footwear add lightness. A subtle and strict use of color further enhance the powerful essentiality of the collection and Saint Laurent sheer magnitude. Anthony Vaccarello proved to be confident enough for fresh innovation and yet capable of honouring the Maison timeless codes and quality. We can’t deny falling for his recent hints of sexiness, micros proportions and high heels, but this cool ease the Creative Director turned to is something we were waiting to abandon to. 

“A subdued matte palette hints at a moment of reflection. Proving that restraint need not be joyless, this is a quietly poetic showing, shot through with bursts of unabashed resolve and verve.”

-SAINT LAURENT FW22

BOTTEGA VENETA

BEYOND BORDERS

2023.09.24

Matthieu Blazy takes us through a physical and metaphorical journey, far away, in search of something else, and at the same time intimate, discovering the self. Clothes transform, men and women disguise and change, blending.

LOUIS VUITTON

GHESQUIÈRE OCTOBER 2014

2023.09.20

The GO-14 bag, an acronym for Ghesquière October 2014, originated as one of the first creations to mark the designer’s debut at the head of the Louis Vuitton Maison.

NEWS

On Foot

2023.09.19

The exhibition On Foot, curated by Jonathan Anderson at Offer Waterman Gallery, will bring contemporary artists in dialogue with works of modern British Art and some interventions conceived by the designer himself.

EXHIBITION

MODE ET SPORT. D'UN PODIUM À L'AUTRE

2023.09.18

Ahead of the 2024 Olympics, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris presents Mode et Sport: from September 20th 2023 will be possible to discover the fascinating interconnections between fashion and sport from the ancient world to the present day.

V&A Museaum

FASHION MANIFESTO

2023.09.15

The first exhibition in the UK dedicated to the visionary couturier Gabrielle Coco Chanel – Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto will open on September 16th 2023 at the Victoria & Albert Museum.