MANIFESTO

#61

ART NOW

MASTERFUL INNOVATION

2022.03.02

by MADDALENA IODICE

Anthony Vaccarello turns to a cool ease where fresh proportions and a considered languid silhouette are defined by structured tension.

The radical elan of Art Deco, which has always guarded a special place in Yves Saint Laurent’s universe, permeates the Winter 2022 women’s collection. The reference is not literal, informing the show more in essence and overall outline than in direct quotations. Anthony Vaccarello got inspired by Nancy Cunard, the independent-minded activist publisher who dressed audaciously ahead of her time, who gave a masculine wardrobe her own indelible imprint; and found his own accent to take Cunard’s intrepid ethos and embed it in our contemporary codes through fresh proportions and a considered languid silhouette defined by structured tension. The signature pieces of the house take on a dramatic new shape enveloping a long fluid line underneath. Yves Saint Laurent outerwear items are at the core and morph from paletot-style coats, to flawless black tuxedos and narrow leather coats, that attenuate downward, paired with flute-like dresses in delicate fabrics. Volume is shifted for a strong sloped shoulder, while fluttering flashes of transparency and unexpected footwear add lightness. A subtle and strict use of color further enhance the powerful essentiality of the collection and Saint Laurent sheer magnitude. Anthony Vaccarello proved to be confident enough for fresh innovation and yet capable of honouring the Maison timeless codes and quality. We can’t deny falling for his recent hints of sexiness, micros proportions and high heels, but this cool ease the Creative Director turned to is something we were waiting to abandon to. 

“A subdued matte palette hints at a moment of reflection. Proving that restraint need not be joyless, this is a quietly poetic showing, shot through with bursts of unabashed resolve and verve.”

-SAINT LAURENT FW22

RIVE DROITE

SAINT LAURENT BY
VANESSA BEECROFT

2023.02.15

Saint Laurent invites Vanessa Beecroft to photograph the Spring 23 collection: a selection of 14 polaroids is on display at Rive Droite stores in Paris and Los Angeles. 

COLLECTION

Gucci Après-Ski

2022.12.15

The Maison presents the new Gucci Après-Ski collection, a selection of garments designed for a luxurious and refined high-altitude season told through a retro campaign inspired by the relaxed atmosphere of winter holidays.

JACQUEMUS

"LE RAPHIA"

2022.12.13

Under a relentless rain of raffia, that breaks in like a summer storm, Jacquemus presents its new Spring Summer 2023 collection, titled “Le Raphia”. The natural fiber becomes the undisputed star moving from its raw essence to being extremely luxurious.

CELINE

Age of Indieness

2022.12.12

Age of Indieness spotlights an aesthetic raised from the indie-sleaze era of the 1990s and early 2000s, Celine’s Winter 2023 collection, designed by Hedi Slimane, walk the catwalk at the Wiltern Theatre in the heart of Los Angeles.

Fashion

Chanel
Métiers d’Art

2022.12.09

The Chanel Métiers d’Art 2022/23 collection, presented under the artistic direction of Virginie Viard, parades at the Palais de Justice in Dakar, capital of Senegal. The show is unique in terms of creativity, and a tribute to the savoir-faire of the place.