The stars symbolize something unreachable yet desired.
In the captivating setting of the runway, Emporio Armani with the FW 24 collection transported the audience on a journey through a sparkling night sky, painted with stars and kissed by a luminous moon. The FW24 collection was presented as a chromatic ode translated into wearable forms, embodying the essence of timeless elegance mixed with a touch of bold modernity. The female silhouettes walking the runway are typically Armani, with an instinctive freedom reflected in their way of dressing. Pants worn under airy dresses that serve as shirts rediscover the coat with its wide and enveloping shapes, and opt for vests made of fabric or crochet. It’s the details that define the style of this collection: jumpsuits, loose pants that delicately close at the bottom. Dark colors invite exploration of different textures, from shiny waxed wools to washed and opaque wools, to the three-dimensionality of textured jacquards and multicolored knitted eco-furs. The subtle and not faint-hearted romanticism that permeates the collection recalls a theme seen on the runway before: large black skirts with stars printed with white outlines.
“There’s an elegance to it, to simplicity. My path of style starts from a few lines sketched on paper and ends in an image made of few elements combined subtly. Because, I’m convinced, simplicity is strength. Simple is never the starting point, but always the end point.”
The silhouette is enveloping, with the shoulders in evidence, and culminates in an evening extravaganza of metallic reflections, star and moon embroideries, and rhinestone chains. The whirlwind of stardust is accompanied by low shoes, large and capacious bags, or small ones like design objects, and bijoux that decorate like signs of light. The color palette, cold and vibrant, embraces the dominance of black, combined with shades of mauve, ultraviolet, jade green, and gray, reminiscent of the hues that paint the night sky when the sun has already set. It’s a greeting to the good night, a style statement that invites you to immerse yourself in a world of sophisticated elegance. However, there’s something deeper behind this collection. Emporio Armani captures “what remains of the day,” to quote the words of Kazuro Ishiguro, managing to glimpse the essence of a youthful attitude that refuses excess to embrace portability without sacrificing spectacle. It’s Giorgio Armani who emphasizes the importance of this coherence, stating that, despite some excessive elements, the entire collection is incredibly wearable.
There’s a sense of elegance from another era: long coats, jackets, even in leather, hats that pay homage to a code of enduring charm. Shirts give way to tops made in the same fabrics as blazers and trousers: a new uniform, monochrome and decisive. Overalls and oversized rubber shirts nod to the night alongside dark wools, used for coats, jackets, and trousers with tailored shapes. Tweed patterns, pinstripes, and flocking adorn the surfaces, always in a single tone. Even metallic embroideries on jackets, shirts, and coats evoke an adventurous atmosphere rather than decorative, reminiscent of the encrustations that the open sea leaves on ship hulls. In conclusion, Emporio Armani has offered a delightful and refined vision of the night sky through fashion, uniting the essence of classic elegance with bold modernity, with a keen eye on portability and practicality. With this collection, Armani continues to demonstrate why he remains an iconic figure in the international fashion industry.
