MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

FRAGMENTS OF LIFE

2022.02.25

BY GUIA ORTOLANI

Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada in a commemoration of life and living, with a glance to the past, to traditions, colliding them in unexpected manners, an inversion of materials, of embroideries, and of garments, that agitate and disturb.

 

During the days before the shows, the teasers on social media were pictures of the models as children, and images of them nowadays. It was an anticipation of the FW 22 collection’s themes: mnemonics, recollections and quotations of a history of women, a conduit from the past to now. Tradition passes culture between generations, fragments of personal narratives, comprising a history.

 

There was still focus on unlikely combinations. The play of juxtapositions was at the core, it was both between garments, and within their construction: structured conventionally masculine pieces are interrupted with feminine, sheer taffeta mini and long skirts, soft dresses and tailoring blend to give new forms. The architecture of clothes affect their rapport with the body.

 

Pragmatic pieces are given new significance. Proportions are exaggerated, in particular for black coat dresses and for the oversize leather trenchs in bright colors. There were sophisticated shearling jackets and prada coats with colored faux fur on the sleeves.

A lot of Signature Miuccia grey, Prada’s heritage geometrics that translated to jacquard knits, minimal Raf turtlenecks and a new twist with Insta-friendly triangle logo tanks. The iconic triangle becomes also the shape of small accessories, that alternate to Soft leather bags in a wide color palette.

 

In practice, an ideology of Prada becomes an etymology of beauty. That is, centrally, the work of fashion:  the process of defining the meaning of beauty, for today.

“ You want to live again, to be inspired. And to learn from the lives of people. ”

– Miuccia Prada

“I think of revolutionary moments in Prada’s history, and we echo them here…There are never direct recreations, but there is a reflection of something you know, a language of Prada. “

– Raf Simons

FW24

Creative freedom

2024.02.28

A collection that rethinks the concept of fashion as a manifestation of power and full representation of creativity, investigating the historical legacy and future of femininity. The looks in Dior’s FW24 collection convey the radiant power of a pluralistic, autonomous and versatile femininity, reactivating that key moment of creative freedom of which Miss Dior is the emblem.

COLLECTION

SPIRIT

2024.02.25

The Fall Winter 2024 collection by Maximilian Davis is an interpretation of the 1920s through a modern lens, particularly inspiring as it offers a new perspective on the elegance and rebellion of that era.

BOTTEGA VENETA

RESILIENCE

2024.02.25

Like the scorched landscape that offers its harsh yet fertile land, Bottega Veneta’s FW collection invites reflection and hope. It is a testament to the inner strength that emerges from the trial by fire, conveying a message of resilience and rebirth as life’s challenges are faced.

MILAN

Elegance and Tradition

2024.02.24

To celebrate and renew the invitation to an open dialogue with the city of Milan, Loro Piana FW24 reiterates its delicate and calm language of making fashion, a Loro Piana method, that is, the absolute search toward the consistency of product history and above all a sustainable and reliable fashion idea.

FW24

Nightly Tribute

2024.02.23

Emporio Armani pays homage to a luminous night sky, quilted with stars and ruled by a shining moon. The FW 24 collection captures a chromatic sensation and translates it into wearable forms.