MANIFESTO

#62

NEW MODERN REALISM

THE SPIRIT OF TRAVEL

2023.10.03

Text by Lucrezia Sgualdino

Nicholas Ghesquière returns to reflect on the hallmarks of the Maison Louis Vuitton and the French elegance. His proposal for the new Spring Summer 2024 blends romanticism and practicality.

 

The atmosphere that welcomes guests is a clear reference to the spirit of travel so dear to the brand’s roots and the imagination of its founder, Monsieur Louis Vuitton. The enveloping ambiance depicts the draped walls of a hot air balloon, orange in color. The hue spreads throughout the set-up, from the metal catwalk to the seating all around. It was American set designer James Chinlund who joined the Creative Director in creating this space, an idea that ties in not at all didactically with the concept of temporality and that of travel precisely. Play and theater in motion are elements that seem to resurface among the fabrics of the various releases… Between alternations of volumes, materials, colors, prints and more generally, silhouettes. The glamorous chic of French elegance finds space between the modern and the contemporary. The designer’s narrative thread evolves as he looks to the future, with fashion becoming fluid and less set, soft and no longer constructed.

“In temporality it’s so coherent with the story of Louis Vuitton.”

– Nicholas Ghesquière

The collection describes a new French femininity of lightness and rigor, volumes and contrasts. There are soft silk bomber jackets and stiff bustiers, long full skirts in printed chiffon, and voluminous mini lengths. High waists are juxtaposed with thin black suspenders, maxi belts appear low on the waist. Patterns and colours are overlaid with contrasting colours, pleats are stiff or left free along the length, streetwear becomes young and chic. The characters of romanticism can be read among the notes of chiffons and in soft, pastel tones, while practicality is clear in the choice of leather and more structured cottons. Accessories are also revisited, becoming practical in their intention to be functional for travel. The bags are maxi and super capacious, or mini and essential. The logos are alternated with different materials, including matte hammered leather, glossy patent leather, or solid colors with large logos. Shoes return to define comfort and wearability, heels are low and not entirely thin, and leather appears soft.

“Vuitton is a luxury brand but it’s about function, it provides a service: to travel better. Mobility is important in clothes.”

– Nicholas Ghesquière

The surrounding color and that present in the entire défilé together with the unique and innovative proposals of shapes and cuts releases the same energy that also echoes thanks to the soundtrack chosen for the occasion. An assemblage of pieces by French musical artist Zaho de Sagazan. A cadenced rhythm that helps in the intention of making the collection less ephemeral and contemplative than the usual narrative to which Ghesquière has accustomed us, but rather a younger, fresh and dynamic narrative, less idealised and more practical. The discerning eye, however, cannot help but notice the expert craftsmanship and the innate and extraordinary craftsmanship that is evoked in the details of each garment. Once again then, the construction of the collection changes into couture elements becoming the undisputed protagonist of the collection for the Louis Vuitton woman, and transporting anyone who observes inside an enchanted, theatrical and scenic world.

103 avenue des champs-elysées.
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BOOK

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Phaidon presents the publication of the first Thom Browne’s monograph. The volume offers a visual journey through the American designer’s revolutionary creations, capturing the essence of his creative process.