MANIFESTO

#61

ART NOW

MAGNIFIED PLAYGROUND

2022.06.24

A cathartic process, fruit of the spirit of the collaborators chosen and trained by Virgil Abloh for the Maison’s Prêt-à-Porter Homme Studio, a creative ecosystem in continuous evolution.

The Louis Vuitton Men’s SS23 collection parades in the Cour Carrée of the Louvre transforming it into a playground of fun and excitement. A marbles track reproduced in the form of an imposing yellow architectural structure symbolises the evolutionary path of the human mind, where childhood fantasies come to life. This scenography welcomes guests, to the incessant rhythm of a band and its flag-wavers. The studio’s design team is an ever-evolving ecosystem of creative talent, and a living testament to Virgil’s great ability to bring people together in a dynamic and stimulating artistic playground. Characteristic elements in the development of the collection are imagination, creation, craftsmanship and spectacle, all of which are strictly necessary for the telling of a universal story. On this occasion, the creative community pays tribute to the great experience they had with Virgil, a journey of flair and personality. The impulse that transforms imagination into creation begins with the tools of one’s childhood; as one grows, one perfects, and the tools that bring ideas to life increase. With Louis Vuitton’s signature savoir-faire, the collection reflects on this transition both figuratively and literally.

Thus come blazers and coats with structured shoulders, maxi-lengths and soft, relaxed fits, wide trousers that are pulled down on the leg, waistcoats taken up at the waist by rope belts dangling along the figures, leather suits with bright tones and logos always in the foreground. Once again, overlapping: embroidered overcoats from which shirts in transparent lace or with unfinished hems sprout; tailored suits covered by long work aprons; parkas with narrow waists and exaggerated widths; pleated skirts and, in conclusion, the graphics of a flowery meadow, as a representation of a completed path. Upcycling also returns, through looks created with three different approaches: excess materials, recycled ideas and reiterations of past stories. Every detail, fantasy and pattern proposed reaffirms a coherent and well-defined path of creativity. Colours are on the rise, an initial series of pastel shades move on to bold colours and playful graphics. Childhood returns in the details, including coloured charms on belts and jewellery, zigzag hems, toy cars, paper aeroplanes and boats, and origami. Accessories include maxi-volume trainers and boots, introduced in leather, fabric and rubber variants; accompanied by the house’s iconic bags in shades coordinated with the looks, and innovative juxtapositions of all those playful and playful aspects of Gen Z and the 2000s. The collection is made up of “pieces that create looks”, and like pieces of a puzzle also resonate the stanzas of Kendrick Lamar, who performed live as a tribute to the passed away creative director. A representation of what the visionary figure of Abloh left to the Maison. A veritable toyland of memories of the past, with an eye open to the future. 

RIVE DROITE

SAINT LAURENT BY
VANESSA BEECROFT

2023.02.15

Saint Laurent invites Vanessa Beecroft to photograph the Spring 23 collection: a selection of 14 polaroids is on display at Rive Droite stores in Paris and Los Angeles. 

COLLECTION

Gucci Après-Ski

2022.12.15

The Maison presents the new Gucci Après-Ski collection, a selection of garments designed for a luxurious and refined high-altitude season told through a retro campaign inspired by the relaxed atmosphere of winter holidays.

JACQUEMUS

"LE RAPHIA"

2022.12.13

Under a relentless rain of raffia, that breaks in like a summer storm, Jacquemus presents its new Spring Summer 2023 collection, titled “Le Raphia”. The natural fiber becomes the undisputed star moving from its raw essence to being extremely luxurious.

CELINE

Age of Indieness

2022.12.12

Age of Indieness spotlights an aesthetic raised from the indie-sleaze era of the 1990s and early 2000s, Celine’s Winter 2023 collection, designed by Hedi Slimane, walk the catwalk at the Wiltern Theatre in the heart of Los Angeles.

Fashion

Chanel
Métiers d’Art

2022.12.09

The Chanel Métiers d’Art 2022/23 collection, presented under the artistic direction of Virginie Viard, parades at the Palais de Justice in Dakar, capital of Senegal. The show is unique in terms of creativity, and a tribute to the savoir-faire of the place.