MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

AMERICAN DANDY

2024.01.17

Text by Francesca Fontanesi

Pharrell Williams’ creative flair lands in Paris with a bold reinterpretation of the American Western tradition. Fringes, denim, and earthy tones define the collection, while the sparkling energy of the iconic Las Vegas Strip merges with a symbolic Parisian style.

Paris, Texas

 

 

It’s no coincidence that Pharrell Williams, a creative director born in Virginia who has been collaborating with the Dakota and Lakota nations for years, drew inspiration from the American West for Louis Vuitton’s new FW24-25 collection. So beige, sand, brown, white, and red become the key elements, along with fringes, laces, ropes, flare pants, and pleated skirts; parfleche designs and rope embroideries. The first model opens the runway with a long white coat with brushed wool fringes and a Dakota flower embroidered on the back, stone-colored bootcut jeans, and a pair of cowhide leather boots; accessorized with a pair of antique Navajo turquoise earrings and a new Speedy Bag 40 in the same color. Denim enriched with floral embroideries and sequins follow, along with leather jackets and pants that mimic saddle embossing, and brushed flannel shirts. Jacquard tapestries cover the raincoats; garments that only appear aged recall the warmth of the West sun that dries the prairies. Suddenly, the Louis Vuitton man becomes an American dandy. Chain stitches made with various materials, such as lame, cotton, and wool, depict ox skulls and knives on shirts. It transitions into workwear: workwear-inspired silhouettes pay homage to haute couture through vaquero-style jackets adorned with bead stripes and hand-embroidered flowers, Damier print parkas accessorized with metal studs, and overalls. The shirts amplify the shoulders, soutache applications on chambray fabrics give character to the scene. And then, the pixelated Damier print returns, a contemporary reinterpretation of the Maison’s iconic check pattern by Pharrell.

“Just think about telling your story and telling your people’s story as best you can and doing it candidly and with love—that’s the overwhelming feeling.”

–Pharrell Williams

From idea to execution, clothing is conceived within an ecosystem of creativity reflected within our most familiar wardrobe staples.

Inspired by the parures of the 19th century, the jewelry collection is crafted in genuine turquoise, a stone believed to contain the spirits of all animals according to Native Americans. In the runway show, a turquoise and zircon necklace with matching ring and earrings, inspired by the one worn by Queen Victoria for her coronation, is reimagined as a cowboy bolo tie. The bolos then transform into braided leather necklaces, and the Louis Vuitton rope chain is incorporated into strands of pearls.

Suddenly: Las Vegas. The show continues with dazzling Vegas-style outfits featuring a series of sequin-studded tuxedo jackets over flared pants, while a bold fur coat daringly reinterprets traditional western attire. However, the true protagonists of this Louis Vuitton FW24-25 collection are the trunks and bags. Alongside a camel-colored ensemble with turquoise buttons and handmade cowboy boots, there is a ergonomic bag that mimics the natural curves of the human body, the Project R. The Speedy makes a comeback in pastel shades and new forms: the studded Saumur, the Steamer in three new dimensions, and a patchwork version with the Pochette Accessoires XL. Monogram canvas bags in aged Monogram, brushed Monogram, and Damier accompany Pharrell’s creative narrative. The Damoflage pattern is presented in ochre and orange hues, as well as cowmooflage canvas in cowhide. Special editions include bags and briefcases designed specifically for books and tools. Shoes draw inspiration from the work boots of the Western territories: the LV Rider comes in crocodile, python, ostrich, and suede. In collaboration with Timberland, a series of American work boots is interpreted through the creative lens of Louis Vuitton and the Made in Italy savoir-faire: industrial-style boots are offered in grain or black nubuck leather, embossed with the Maison’s monogram, also featured on the back of the tongue. Mumford & Sons provide the soundtrack to the scene. The sounds of Williams and Lakota Hokie Clairmont performed by the Native Voices of Resistance masterfully accompany the nods to Pharrell Williams. The curtain falls.

POWER IS OUTSPOKEN

2024.02.28

An elegant sense of power pervades the latest Saint Laurent runway. There’s a duality that merges elegance and provocation, a carnal convergence between garment and body. Revisiting Yves’s codes, blouses, shirts, ultra-tight skirts, and silk dresses culminate in a powerful aesthetic imagery.

Creative freedom

2024.02.28

A collection that rethinks the concept of fashion as a manifestation of power and full representation of creativity, investigating the historical legacy and future of femininity. The looks in Dior’s FW24 collection convey the radiant power of a pluralistic, autonomous and versatile femininity, reactivating that key moment of creative freedom of which Miss Dior is the emblem.

FALL/WINTER 24

Impalpable Visions

2024.02.26

Armani opts for a palette of jewel tones and a novel emphasis on black. The attention to embroidered details marries simple elegance, while a message of poetry and hope shines through the outlines of winter flowers.

Jil Sander

Minimal frills, maximum impact

2024.02.25

The FW24 collection by Jil Sander is abundant in rounded silhouettes and soft lines, yet with character. The balance between form and comfort fills the enveloping coats and sartorial details: each piece reflects a constant pursuit of effortless sophistication.

COLLECTION

SPIRIT

2024.02.25

The Fall Winter 2024 collection by Maximilian Davis is an interpretation of the 1920s through a modern lens, particularly inspiring as it offers a new perspective on the elegance and rebellion of that era.