Text by Lucrezia Sgualdino



A clear retrospective in Nicolas Ghesquière’s work for Louis Vuitton is the collection staged for Fall-Winter 2024-2025. A decade of fashion that recalls strong emotions, reflections and feelings.

This is a particular evening. A meaningful evening.

Ten years ago, you came to my first show for Louis Vuitton. I remember the feeling of “beginning”, the immense joy I felt to be among you. This joy is still here. Ten years later, this evening is a new dawn…

I wanted to continue this inspiring journey, open to the future and to the world, the philosophy of Louis Vuitton. It’s a beautiful journey. I’m continuing it.

I thank you for sharing these past ten years of design with me. Ten years to a creator is the time to say things well.

I thank Bernard Arnault for his trust. Thanks to Michael Burke. Thank you, dear Delphine Arnault. And thank you today, Pietro Beccari.

And I thank you and all those who make up Louis Vuitton, those who have allowed me to build and express this ever-renewing story.

You were with me, the 5th of March 2014, one morning. You are here again with me today, this evening. Tomorrow.



5th March 2024

Modern sensuality and visionary femininity are the main characteristics of Creative Director Nicolas Ghesquière’s work, an inherent play in his personal and unique vision of fashion with an incredibly recognizable character. Memory appears as the guiding beacon for inspiration and reflection around the collection, a precise, clear, and direct direction that echoes the values of the Maison, along with the characters that have become benchmarks of the past decade of the brand’s women’s collections. The representation of an aesthetic happens here through sophisticated details, volumes and materials that alternate, dialogue and contrast at the same time, classic codes reinterpreted, futuristic visions with sci-fi inspiration. The atmosphere becomes intimate with the narration of a journey, the one so dear to Louis Vuitton, which today becomes inclusive and broad, cadenced by an intense but soft rhythmicity, pungent but enveloping.

“I remember the feeling of beginning, the immense joy I felt to be among you. This joy is still here. Ten years later, this evening is a new dawn… I wanted to continue this inspiring journey, open to the future and to the world, the philosophy of Louis Vuitton.”

– Nicolas Ghesquière

The collection includes an incredible research of fabrics and materials, we go from light draperies adorned with various kinds of sequins and glitter, with an ephemeral and precious essence, to important, almost constricting structures, which instead convey ideas of strength and decision, importance and firmness. The juxtaposition of different materials is once again the key to the looks presented on the catwalk, unique overlays, patchwork effects of different sensations and renditions, contrasting shades and unique effects. Different bases, from the most classic fabrics with cotton yarns to technical, futuristic, modern choices; leather is used on the clothes as well as on the accessories; satin gives shine to the proposals, and is once again made unique in its total beauty by prints and colors symbolic of the Maison; there are also applied details, if they can be defined in this way, such as pockets with a clear inspiration to utilitarian wear, along with stitching and small cuts; lengths also alternate, in games of overlapping and succession. Craftsmanship and workmanship encapsulate all the elements of the défilé, from fur gloves to double zippers, from jeweled belts to dress trims, from applied details to handmade fringing.

The line of creativity remains clear in Ghesquière’s mind as he allows himself to be carried along by its guiding spirit, following its right direction and limpid path. All the words used in his decade-long language once again come alive and constant. Never is anything left to chance, and never is anything repeated, rather everything is thought out and recreated precisely to tell a new chapter of history. The affinity with all past work is inevitably evident, and it would be strange otherwise, but it remains slight and nuanced, barely perceptible; it is imagination that takes over. Everything that is familiar and known changes, evolves, is renewed and shaped by evolution, and, once again, it will be the passage of time that will prove us right.

Chanel Overture


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