Unstructured minimalism


Text by Lucrezia Sgualdino

Lucie and Luke Meier’s work expands their personal vision of a new concept of tailoring, between a close connection to tradition and a sophisticated destruction of canons.

The creative duo’s starting idea for Jil Sander’s spring/summer 2023 collection stems from California, the American West Coast. A place that carries within it emotions, feelings, and many different personalities. A progressive vision both in terms of way of thinking and interpretation of freedom, with many great possibilities open and viable. From this key, the two designers combined different elements, seeking a balance that was interesting, modern, and pure. California also symbolizes the concept of the new, of discovery, of desire. It is also a space of contrast, between characters and personalities, with radical perspectives rooted in the land, with psychedelic experimentation and opposing representations of an ever-evolving world. Clash and harmony between glamour and pragmatism, technology and dream, measure and infinity. 

“We think it is important to merge the archetypes of womenswear and menswear, to fuse delicate and functional, day and night, gowns and workwear. It creates the space of freedom and feels intimate and modern to us personally.”

– Lucie and Luke Meister

The collection is a representation of absolute, unstructured minimalism, a harmonious balancing of seemingly opposite elements: sculptural forms, soft and elongated silhouettes, full and intense colors, lightness and comfort. The gray atmosphere of a bucolic setting crossed by streaks of volcanic lava gave a definite change of perspective to the collection made of simple cuts and bold lines. Jackets are presented without collars or with large lapels, minidresses in chenille or knit, large high-necked pullovers. Mini tops and soft pants side by side with the total deconstruction of the tailored suit, jackets paired with thin crewnecks, matched to high-waisted pants, skirts and shorts. Materials echo the sophistication of the collection, silk, cotton viscose, linen, cool wool, suede and goatskin. The color palette is broad, fresh and vivid: tones of white, brown and gray, with pale shades of peach, lilac, blue and green. The silver and gold of the dresses blend with the important accessories. The bags are simple in shape but elaborate in creation, with feather or sequin details, and large shiny chains. The shoes worn on the runway, on the other hand, are of different kinds, leather and canvas sneakers, boots and sandals to represent the lightness and diversity of the collection. 

The delicacy of the show can be found in the spirit of research and innovation, in the rigor and in the skillful creative ability. In the careful reading of trends and modernity. An essential key contained in the same desire to tell the men’s and women’s wardrobe together, as the foundation of teamwork and the strength that the other can give to each of us. 


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