MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

BLOWING IN THE WIND

2024.06.21

Text by Francesca Fontanesi

The Homme Plissé Issey Miyake show titled Up, Up, and Away draws inspiration from the wind and aims for the perfect synthesis by creating garments and coats with free and airy silhouettes.

The Homme Plissé Issey Miyake SS25 collection, titled Up, Up, and Away and presented in Paris, draws inspiration from the wind in all its forms: the phenomena it generates, the craftsmanship, and wind-responsive design, and the shapes it embodies. Creativity and the art of making are expressed through the use of sheer and lightweight materials, voluminous silhouettes, and a sense of simplicity in wearing the garments, bringing to life clothes that animate with the movement of air. This collection further explores the potential of pleating technology – which was born in 1988 thanks to an intuition by Makiko Manigawa, the brand’s textile department director – resulting in garments that seem to be carried by the wind. The first looks feature a distorted check pattern called Windswept Plaid, with prints created by exposing the fabric to strong currents, allowing it to float in the air and thus creating a spontaneous plaid pattern – rich in the colors and motifs expected from the infinitely innovative era of Satoshi Kondo. The Windswept Shirt series features additional hand-made pleating and simple silhouettes, with curved lines that generate waves moving with the wind. The looks include a long tie that can be tied or wrapped, giving the sensation of swaying in the wind, and the fabric is light and airy: the garments become increasingly complex, integrating with one another. Clothes to hide in, or to find rest within. The Kite series interprets the structure of a kite, transforming the shapes of the garments into sculptures when worn. The voluminous silhouettes can be modified thanks to the presence of buttons, making the pieces versatile; the soft earth tones, khaki, and cream are paired with simple pastel elegance.

The designs are encapsulated in the use of sheer and lightweight fabrics, giving a sense of simplicity in wearing them, creating garments that come to life as soon as the air moves.

Wearing Homme Plissé, people experience a sense of freedom and the joy of being able to wear clothes as they prefer. The collection brings excitement to the daily lives of men with a contemporary lifestyle.

 

 

The coats inflate and fill at the back, mimicking the motion of waves. Hidden pockets allow the garments to be rolled into a backpack, to be carried compactly in case of sudden rain during a midsummer storm. The pieces in the Freshen series, made from a blend of recycled nylon and cotton in fresh colors like mint, give the fabric a natural look thanks to the washed finish and soften the silhouettes; the jacket and pant sets feature large square pockets. Traditional tailoring is made with cuts that shape the garment to the body, making it fit closely, while the pleats, stretchable by definition, create an unrestricted line: the result is dynamic, mobile garments that are always ready to return to form. Moving on to the Parachute elements, inspired by the design of a parachute, with front straps similar to harnesses, the clothes are designed to allow air to pass through when worn, inflating and rounding them at the back. The shoulders are full. The hidden inner belt allows the garments to be rolled up and fastened for easy transport, and the Kite Coat visually suggests the same construction as a kite and the way it catches the wind, arching in the air translated onto a coat: curved and double seams overlap, and buttons allow the garment to play with the breeze depending on the weather conditions. The collection concludes with a sky-blue overcoat characterized by an airy and rounded shape, which can be worn in different ways thanks to additional openings on the arms, allowing the sleeves to flutter in the wind.

Having a story is essential to my collection. When I create a collection, the story is actually the source, of course, of the inspiration. And from there, every design in every garment is developed.

– Satoshi Kondo

Chanel Overture

2024.06.26

Presented in Paris, the Haute Couture FW 2024/25 fashion show pays homage to the Opéra Garnier. The collection, sophisticated and theatrical, plays with opulent materials such as feathers, velvet, and taffeta, modernizing a scenic tradition.

HAUTE COUTURE

Dior's Olympian Couture

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Among the spaces of the Musée Rodin in Paris, the audience witnesses a parade of peplos and drapery in the name of Dior. A reference not only visual but also conceptual to classical statuary.

DIOR

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Hermès brings lightness

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COLLECTION

ARCHIVAL RENAISSANCE

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