MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

A FORM THAT BREATHES

2022.10.02

Text by Lucrezia Sgualdino

Sculpture inspires the new Issey Miyake SS23 collection. A creative process that allows the full expression of one’s creativity through the freedom to shape with one’s own hands. 

All elements of the collection refer back to the world of sculpture, in ideas, elements and textures. Each piece has original shapes, like a sculpture that appears rigid but becomes soft with movement and seems to come alive. The entire défilé includes several series, each unique and singular but at the same time linked to the others by the inspirational thread of the whole creative process. The Torso series is the centerpiece of the collection, silhouettes handmade from a single piece of none have statuesque shapes. The material results stationary and moving at the same time, once worn elements come to life instead three-dimensionality and draping. From the work on the same fabric also comes to life the creation of prints with clay, Torso Juxtapose. The colors used are intense and bold, as is the dense application of them. Pieces with soft curved lines on the upper part of the body, from the shoulders to the wrists, can be recognized in R Coat and R Shirt. For the former, a light, stretchy fabric with a treatment that makes the garment water-repellent is used, while for the latter, cotton and nylon are blended to create a soft, thin material with a great fit. The fabric of the Resonant Suit, on the other hand, is the cornerstone of the research, looking to the future but keeping Issey Miyake’s iconic pleating technology intact. The polyester fiber used is derived from 100 percent plant sources, completely free of petroleum derivatives.

“We see design as a process driven by curiosity, built upon a comprehensive exploration – bringing joy, wonder, and hope to life, and of course with a touch of playfulness.”

– Satoshi Kondo

Another fundamental series in the work and history of the brand is the seamless knit. Recycled polyester is used for the Linkage series, which gives roundness of volume and roughness in shape, an effect emphasized by the pattern made by joining threads with different colors, so the optical effect changes depending on the shapes and movements of the wearer. Assemblage, on the other hand, has transparency as its characteristic, given by the light design of delicate yarns. These garments are clearly versatile due to the possibility of combining them in multiple layers. Nude, on the other hand, features an abstract graphic representation inspired by the body; transparent inner yarns create draping effects on the layers underneath. These garments can also be worn inside out, thus becoming visible and enjoyable from different angles just like a sculpture. The accessories, Sculptures, reproduce to scale, with the help of a 3D printer, sculptures made by the creative team. The shapes are well-defined but delicate; made of brass or tin make the jewelry everyday and versatile. 

MFW

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Gucci

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PAUL KOOIKER

FASHION

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Art Paper Edition publishes a 10-chapter story called Fashion, where Paul Kooiker’s eye tries to articulate his personal horizon on contemporary fashion.

FASHION

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2023.11.17

24 years old Hubert de Givenchy founded the brand of the same name and some seventy years have passed since then, which are finely recounted in the Maison’s only monograph through original catwalk photographs.

SL RIVE DROIT

THRILL ME

2023.10.26

Saint Laurent Rive Droite presents THRILL ME, a selection of limited edition products designed by Anthony Vaccarello. The collection is an enticing mix of dark elegance and avant-garde design.