Text by Lucrezia Sgualdino

Isabel Marant returns to the origins, looking back to the exact moment of the brand’s birth, in the mid-1990s to the early 2000s; a chic and bohemian style with retro silhouettes but decidedly cool.

The return to the origins of the brand’s history characterizes Isabel Marant’s spring/summer 2023 collection. A style that is timeless and strongly characterized by French and, more specifically, Parisian style. The brand’s aesthetic is strongly recognizable and characterized by a predominance of boho style, declined to versatile elements. An attitude that can be said to be relaxed and collected at the same time, chic but also minimal, traditional but always up-to-date. All this allows each season to reinvent the typical Parisian look: skinny jeans, oversized sweaters and seemingly a bit scruffy look. The défilé presented at the Palais Royal is urban and eclectic, telling of a woman who identifies herself in garments that are bold, sensual and effortless at the same time. 

“I wanted to go back to a certain fragility of femininity, but still keeping in mind the Isabel Marant woman, who is a bit of a city warrior.”

– Isabel Marant

The collection sees both men and women on the runway alternating low-waisted mini-skirts, cargo pants and military bomber jackets, inlaid and embroidered ruffle dresses exuding the allure of the 2000s aesthetic, crochet tops and leather cropped pants, bangs and deep V-necks. Different materials and shapes come together in a language that is fragile but also strong and profound, an image of extreme lightness. The colors and patterns used are warm, on earthy and floral tones; the handcrafted details are feminine and precious, golden pearls, delicate ruffles and fine shoulder straps. All this seems simple and unobtrusive, but the craftsmanship stands out in the workmanship of the individual definitions. A full self-confidence also walks the runway, thanks to a skillful composition of everything that has made the brand what it is today. Fluid, effortless and free. 




Saint Laurent invites Vanessa Beecroft to photograph the Spring 23 collection: a selection of 14 polaroids is on display at Rive Droite stores in Paris and Los Angeles. 


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