MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

Counterform

2024.01.22

Text by Francesca Fontanesi.

Hermès’ equestrian tradition intertwines with gorpcore, and classics of the male wardrobe find expression through a new play of shapes and colors. Different lives converge in those who wear them. For the FW24 collection, paradox guides the creative direction.

In the new FW24 collection by Hermès, the versatility of clothing defines the attitude of the wearer: the silhouettes are animated by a playful effervescence, while the (de)construction of men’s clothing is reinvented through a play of shapes and counterforms, with cuts and cutouts, adorned with graphic signatures. Véronique Nichanian has presented a collection that places the brand’s multiplicities at the center: the equestrian roots of Hermès are subtle, and dandy chic becomes elegant. Thanks to tweed and wool, the collection transports fantasy to the English countryside, but with leather accents, whether in accessories or in bomber jackets for horse riding, making it bolder. Classic outerwear is revisited with subtle accents, and various essentials of the male wardrobe dominate the collection, including a black leather A-2 aviator jacket and long leather coats with belts, as well as knitwear with argyle patterns. The volumes are sharp and generous, peacoats and jackets are short, enveloping coats lengthen the silhouette, and slim pants elongate the leg. Irreverence is at play in these garments with and for different lives: reversible, layerable, transformable. A double reading in which rubber garments meet Prince of Wales suits; double collars and tubular scarves provide warmth while neo-jackets slip on like hooded sweatshirts.

“I think it’s vital to move, inject color, play, twist things to surprise people. We always do things at Hermès with a sense of humor, lightness, and charm.”

–Véronique Nichanian

Precise off-centerings, designed shifts. The materials are soft and strong at the same time: dipped lamb leather and leather, deer flannel, cashmere and alpaca, wool, and glossy calfskin. Sliding pockets, maxi-chevron, are the anamorphosis of a horse’s mantle. The collection moves through a palette of dusty grays and classic blacks and browns, with shades of earthy greens and light purples, but also pumpkin, anise, crocodile, khaki: between glossy and matte nuances, a liberated sophistication emerges.

Gorpcore meets the tailoring of the french Maison, and the result is exceptional. It doesn’t hesitate to go beyond its own boundaries, and among the accessories, high crossbody bags in Barénia calfskin, Swift calfskin, or Sombrero calfskin appear; travel bags in printed canvas with a horse riding motif and Négonda calfskin; plume bags in Butler leather, and relax bags in Volupto leather. Multi-compartment models with handles, emblematic of the brand and reintroduced in various styles and colors, paired with anthracite gray rain jackets featuring a double collar in sugar paper blue. Men are accessorized with cashmere beanies and bucket hats in rubberized canvas, along with necklaces and pendants, single and double, and white gold and diamond rings. H-shaped bangles in silver and rose gold rest on soft khaki palettes; palladium jewelry adorns ears and complements mud-colored men’s coats. Prince-of-Wales wool ties, with pop stitches, are paired with étrivière belts in smooth crocodile leather. Calfskin lace-up boots and shoes with treaded soles; calfskin or smooth crocodile ankle boots. A deep exploration of Hermès‘ masculine tradition, where paradox replaces the more traditional concept of strength.

VERSACE JEANS COUTURE

METROPOLITAN NOCTURNES

2024.04.15

Drawing inspiration from the evocative work of Philip-Lorca DiCorcia, Metropolitan Nocturnes – the new Versace Jeans Couture campaign – tells the intertwined lives of four distinct individuals. Each character navigates the interaction born from the energy of Miami and their own inner landscapes.

FASHION

HIGH&LOW

2024.03.13

Through a series of exclusive interviews, Kevin Macdonald sheds new light on the creative genius of John Galliano, from his prodigious student days at Central St. Martins in London to his tenure at Dior, culminating in the 2011 incident. A kaleidoscopic portrait of one of the greatest cultural icons of the 2000s.

COLLECTION

Exceptional Frenchness

2024.03.12

Hedi Slimane perfectly balances the refined with the casual. The tweed riding jackets reinvent the Celine codes, while romantic trenches lighten the spaces of Salle Pleyel.

SAINT LAURENT

MASCULINE GRACE

2024.03.06

Anthony Vaccarello revisits classic menswear with a contemporary twist. The suits are roomy, soft, detached from the body, often in lightweight and sheer fabrics, sometimes layered. Saint Laurent’s georgette and satin are enveloped in a shadowy color palette.

FASHION

Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind

2024.03.06

Miu Miu delves into our individual life lexicons. The collection unfolds with a diverse array of interpretations of traditional uniforms and attire; surgeons, assistants, teachers, and waitresses parade down the runway. Miuccia Prada’s dark youth is captured in its tight proportions and contrasting hues. A futuristic prelude sets the stage, introducing viewers to the complexities of human memory.