MANIFESTO

#64

MUSE TWENTY FANZINE

ANCORA MILANO

2024.01.11

Text by Chiara Belardi

The second love letter to Milan, Gucci Perspectives 2, traverses the city’s unconventional architectures, imagining new spaces and new selves that anticipate Gucci’s new creative expressions.

“This is a story born from the joy of living, from passion and humanity, from people and real life, from irreverent charm, provocation, and self-confidence, from simplicity, sudden sensations, and emotions. From a precise art form made of words…” thus, last September, when Sabato De Sarno made his debut as the creative director of Gucci, clearly demonstrating his early interest in constructing a visual identity that explores artistic, aesthetic, and cultural references. On the eve of his debut in men’s fashion with the Gucci Ancora Men’s Fall Winter 2024 runway show, De Sarno reaffirms and deepens this creative statement with Gucci Perspectives 2: Still Milan, the second volume dedicated to the city and its creative expressions. The book, curated by Paola Antonelli—an architect, design curator, and Milanese—illustrates the multiple dimensions and different aspects of Milanese design, solidifying the commitment to seek a dialogue between fashion, art, and architecture. Gucci Perspectives 2 is once again a love letter to Milan, a constellation of creative references that together create a meaning-rich artistic direction, a world built through a poetic, gentle gaze attentive to sensitive forms.

Fermata della metropolitana di Milano, progettata da Franco Albini e Bob Noorda (foto ritoccata) / Milan subway stop, designed by Franco Albini and Bob Noorda. © Aldo Ballo / Archivio Franco Albini.

“We were inspired by the idea of frictions and conflicts, alternating flashes of brutalism with visions of commercial, entrepreneurial, and industrial refinement, exploring the clichés of bourgeois elegance without neglecting the more complex and radical nuances that make it distinctly Milanese.”

– Paola Antonelli

Unexpected impressions and juxtapositions of buildings, spaces, objects, and the people who created them bring to life the portrait of a city devoted to design. After pictorial, photographic, and poetic references, Antonelli and De Sarno observe the city together as a cradle of design systems, from whose stratification Milanese identity emerges: physical spaces and objects enter into dialogue with those who inhabit and use them, in a continuous and layered exchange. The publications, accompanying each Gucci collection, form a creative relay where artists and visual references are invited to contribute their narrative of the city of Milan as a place of beauty, sensuality, poetry, and tradition. On the eve of his debut in men’s fashion with the Gucci Ancora Men’s Fall Winter 2024 runway show, Sabato De Sarno seems to want to immerse himself in many small operations that contribute to influencing his fashion and culture through a unique and contemporary perspective.

Gatto Verde Reportage, Milano. © Francesco Saverio Tani / Gatto Verde.
Luke Jerram, “Museum of the Moon”, Piscina Cozzi, Milano, 2019. © Andrea Cherchi.
Matteo Triola, Complesso residenziale Monte Amiata nel quartiere Gallaratese di Milano, progettato nel 1967 da Carlo Aymonino e Aldo Rossi / Residential complex Monte Amiata Housing, in the Gallaratese district of Milan, designed in 1967 by Carlo Aymonino and Aldo Rossi. © Matteo Triola.
Bande Nere, Contrasto, Milano.

EXHIBITION

SLIPPERS GOLD, OYSTERS COLD

2024.10.04

It’s an opportunity for a pastiche of human activity and just as fleeting as a dance performance. Cementing the ethereal, capturing atmosphere for posterity, inviting us as onlookers to the thrill of spectacle. Andie Dinkin will often include a curtain or some suggestion of a stage.

ART

GHOST AND SPIRIT

2024.10.01

The first major UK exhibition of American artist Mike Kelley is on view at Tate Modern, London. An elaborate, provocative and imaginary world created by the experimental artist is made by a diverse body of work using drawing, collage, performance, found objects, and video.

EXHIBITION

FAMILY TIES

2024.09.30

Tina Barney’s first European retrospective explores over four decades of photographs that combine family intimacy with complex artistic reconstruction, offering a glossy look at the social rituals of the American and European bourgeoisie.

PHOTOGRAPHY

A VISUAL PILGRIMAGE

2024.09.26

Through the everyday places, the new book Luigi Ghirri: Viaggi invites us to rediscover the hidden complexity in the familiar and the ordinary, in a visual pilgrimage that transcends the traditional notion of exploration.

EXHIBITION

I followed you to the end

2024.09.19

In Tracey Emin’s new exhibition in London, the images that emerge serve as an interface to resurrect past versions of herself, to revisit crucial events from her life, and to weave the spectrum of her experience into an ever-present moment.