MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

ANCORA MILANO

2024.01.11

Text by Chiara Belardi

The second love letter to Milan, Gucci Perspectives 2, traverses the city’s unconventional architectures, imagining new spaces and new selves that anticipate Gucci’s new creative expressions.

“This is a story born from the joy of living, from passion and humanity, from people and real life, from irreverent charm, provocation, and self-confidence, from simplicity, sudden sensations, and emotions. From a precise art form made of words…” thus, last September, when Sabato De Sarno made his debut as the creative director of Gucci, clearly demonstrating his early interest in constructing a visual identity that explores artistic, aesthetic, and cultural references. On the eve of his debut in men’s fashion with the Gucci Ancora Men’s Fall Winter 2024 runway show, De Sarno reaffirms and deepens this creative statement with Gucci Perspectives 2: Still Milan, the second volume dedicated to the city and its creative expressions. The book, curated by Paola Antonelli—an architect, design curator, and Milanese—illustrates the multiple dimensions and different aspects of Milanese design, solidifying the commitment to seek a dialogue between fashion, art, and architecture. Gucci Perspectives 2 is once again a love letter to Milan, a constellation of creative references that together create a meaning-rich artistic direction, a world built through a poetic, gentle gaze attentive to sensitive forms.

Fermata della metropolitana di Milano, progettata da Franco Albini e Bob Noorda (foto ritoccata) / Milan subway stop, designed by Franco Albini and Bob Noorda. © Aldo Ballo / Archivio Franco Albini.

“We were inspired by the idea of frictions and conflicts, alternating flashes of brutalism with visions of commercial, entrepreneurial, and industrial refinement, exploring the clichés of bourgeois elegance without neglecting the more complex and radical nuances that make it distinctly Milanese.”

– Paola Antonelli

Unexpected impressions and juxtapositions of buildings, spaces, objects, and the people who created them bring to life the portrait of a city devoted to design. After pictorial, photographic, and poetic references, Antonelli and De Sarno observe the city together as a cradle of design systems, from whose stratification Milanese identity emerges: physical spaces and objects enter into dialogue with those who inhabit and use them, in a continuous and layered exchange. The publications, accompanying each Gucci collection, form a creative relay where artists and visual references are invited to contribute their narrative of the city of Milan as a place of beauty, sensuality, poetry, and tradition. On the eve of his debut in men’s fashion with the Gucci Ancora Men’s Fall Winter 2024 runway show, Sabato De Sarno seems to want to immerse himself in many small operations that contribute to influencing his fashion and culture through a unique and contemporary perspective.

Gatto Verde Reportage, Milano. © Francesco Saverio Tani / Gatto Verde.
Luke Jerram, “Museum of the Moon”, Piscina Cozzi, Milano, 2019. © Andrea Cherchi.
Matteo Triola, Complesso residenziale Monte Amiata nel quartiere Gallaratese di Milano, progettato nel 1967 da Carlo Aymonino e Aldo Rossi / Residential complex Monte Amiata Housing, in the Gallaratese district of Milan, designed in 1967 by Carlo Aymonino and Aldo Rossi. © Matteo Triola.
Bande Nere, Contrasto, Milano.
Creative freedom

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A collection that rethinks the concept of fashion as a manifestation of power and full representation of creativity, investigating the historical legacy and future of femininity. The looks in Dior’s FW24 collection convey the radiant power of a pluralistic, autonomous and versatile femininity, reactivating that key moment of creative freedom of which Miss Dior is the emblem.

CULTURE

ANNIE ERNAUX AND PHOTOGRAPHY

2024.02.28

In Exteriors (Journal du dehors), Annie Ernaux immerses herself in the interactions at the margins of daily life. Her words become the focal point of a visual reflection unfolding through a selection of images from the MEP collection in Paris. These photographs merge with Ernaux’s text, creating a social and political narrative.

NEWS

We Are Not Going Back

2024.02.27

The new single released by Wolfgang Tillmans is accompanied by a video directed by Tillmans himself, using 80 years old footage by his grandfather Karl R. Tillmans filmed in New York 1939 and Western Germany 1949.

PARIS

TRANSPARENCIES

2024.02.27

Tulle, velvet, organza, and chiffon; the clues to a journey through the twenty-first century sexual revolution under the gaze of the Couturier who left his mark on an era. The new exhibition at the Yves Saint Laurent museum in Paris reconstructs the iconic textile innovation of the 1960s made by Yves and more.

COLLECTION

SPIRIT

2024.02.25

The Fall Winter 2024 collection by Maximilian Davis is an interpretation of the 1920s through a modern lens, particularly inspiring as it offers a new perspective on the elegance and rebellion of that era.