MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

SUBVERSION

2024.02.24

Text by Francesca Fontanesi

From coats adorned with dégradé paillettes to bustier dresses in double-face wool and cashmere, the absence of embroidery is complemented by Seventies graphics and midi lengths reinterpreted for chemisier dresses. Coats and riding boots are the absolute protagonists of the new FW24 by Gucci.

For FW24, Gucci brings to the runway capelets adorned with dégradé paillettes, bustier dresses, and tunics in double-face wool and cashmere. No embroidery. Seventies graphics characterize the chemisier dresses and jacquard fabrics on the cabans; opening the show is a suit comprised of a jacket and shorts, accessorized with a thin belt and supple leather boots – almost buttery – above the knee, maintaining the minimalist spirit already present since Sabato De Sarno’s debut. Chemisier dresses from the previous FW23 are reinterpreted this time with midi lengths, paired with high-waisted double-G briefs. A long-sleeved black lace dress is paired with slingback shoes inspired by Gucci’s iconic loafers, the strongest nod to the brand’s heritage. Lace fabrics are embellished with embroideries and velvets, underdresses are carefully layered and held together by delicate laces: paillettes, instead, adorn the knitwear. Twin-sets defy tradition, presenting as a singular piece. For the upcoming autumn, sleek looks abound: a charcoal wool crepe onesie manages to be both sporty and elegant, perfectly complemented by red over-the-knee riding boots. It’s the time for the true protagonists of this Gucci collection: the coats.

“I just want to combine what I hate with what I love”.

– Sabato de Sarno

As emphasized by the House, crafting an outerwear piece is an act of sartorial mastery. A quintessential symbol of technical culture: it begins with construction, moves through lining and interior, navigating how the fabric falls, how it moves when worn, how its color changes when wool mixes with more modern fibers. Each time is a meticulous journey, where every action can alter the final result. The Fall Winter 2024 collection is an obsessive repetition of that journey, a series of small subversive acts against the rules of prêt-à-porter. The standout coat, in wool and with a masculine silhouette, features a faux English design, with hidden buttons placed at the back, transforming it into a hug. The same applies to the bombers, cabans, and leather jackets.

Under the music of The Irrepressibles emerges a new handbag: a flat, perforated logo revealing what lies beneath, crafted from luxurious garment nappa with a silky, natural texture, paired with a lightweight layer that makes it delicate to the touch. This model, aptly named GG Milano, stands out for its elegance. Another bag – this time in the shape of a half moon – inspired by equestrian motifs from Gucci’s archives is reinterpreted with a modernist style and adorned with a new logo. Furthermore, a ruched clutch, supported by a golden metal bar reminiscent of the iconic bamboo. Lastly, a Bamboo bucket bag, with broad and embracing lines. The riding boots, symbolizing the bond between Gucci and the equestrian world, feature a shaft inspired by the classic tube, completed by a clasp in a new elongated version, included in an unprecedented cuissardes interpretation. The Horsebit loafers transform into refined craftsmanship plateau sandals, made in a single carefully crafted piece. A necklace from the archives, gold-plated and decorated with studs, intertwines with a bow in the same tone as the garment it adorns around the neck. To grasp the extraordinary, where the ordinary is taken for granted.

“My dreams, as with my fashion, always converse with reality. Because I am not searching for another world to live in, but rather of ways to live in this world.”

– Sabato de Sarno

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Drawing inspiration from the evocative work of Philip-Lorca DiCorcia, Metropolitan Nocturnes – the new Versace Jeans Couture campaign – tells the intertwined lives of four distinct individuals. Each character navigates the interaction born from the energy of Miami and their own inner landscapes.

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Hedi Slimane perfectly balances the refined with the casual. The tweed riding jackets reinvent the Celine codes, while romantic trenches lighten the spaces of Salle Pleyel.

SAINT LAURENT

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Anthony Vaccarello revisits classic menswear with a contemporary twist. The suits are roomy, soft, detached from the body, often in lightweight and sheer fabrics, sometimes layered. Saint Laurent’s georgette and satin are enveloped in a shadowy color palette.

FASHION

Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind

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