MANIFESTO

#64

MUSE TWENTY FANZINE

THE TACTILE AND SENSORIAL

2024.09.29

Text by Lucrezia Sgualdino

The atelier is the starting point for the new Hermès Spring/Summer 2025 collection. The Maison’s heritage is intertwined between leatherwork and the prospect of a future that changes in form and function, that allows itself to be traced by a light hand and loses itself in the lines of a design.

The craftsman’s hand works leather, leather, material. In the place of creation par excellence, a creative dialogue is born in which the work of art itself takes shape. Games of senses and perceptions appear that tell of the femininity of the Hermès woman, designed by Nadège Vanhee. Determined, bold, but also elegant and modern, attentive to quality, craftsmanship and the history behind each piece. The collection is clearly functional and versatile, it is young and determined. Transparency lends a veil of innate sensuality to a woman who is overwhelmed by beauty. Garments and shapes that reveal the body, that let you glimpse and guess. The woman becomes free and daring, confident and decisive. Incredible savoir-faire meets fashion, once again, and gives life to a combined and effective fashion design. Different elements mingle and overlap, motifs are repeated as far as the eye can see, modern graphic imprints become indispensable details of an ultra-modern and skilfully descriptive collection. The dress reveals new ideas and possibilities at every moment. Colour leaps from one garment to the next, guiding the eye to different perspectives.

In the atelier. The place of creation. The space where the work takes shape, where the hand expresses itself. A place of encounter. […] A place where one welcomes the world while one explores the world. […] style as a timeless, crafted work.

The versatility of the collection represents the various moments of life that change and evolve, as well as the lines of a pattern that become fuller and fuller. A chestnut-coloured silk twill with a sophisticated pattern. A body-hugging coat in wool and silk, with pockets and loops. The smooth, soft leather of an adjustable coat, structured by waistcoat and bomber jacket. Light and opacity are another interesting alternation, between overlapping and multiplicity. A long light silk skirt rests over high-waisted culottes, and a thin Médor belt. An apron dress with an exposed panel that closes at the hip. A reversible patchwork denim with clever leather details. Safari-inspired outfits with cargo trousers and tops finished with incredible suede detailing. A series with a trompe-l’oeil motif expressing man’s workmanship on smooth leather. The colours are all harmonious, from beige to browns and camel, ebony and chestnut brown, bronze green, and white. The accessories are the most complete representation of the Maison’s craftsmanship. The sandals have wooden soles, the boots an imperceptible heel, the geometric earrings are inspired by the details of the bags. These include a Birkin à l’envers, and other versatile proposals, small hand bags and woven buckets.

The setting is a faithful reconstruction of an artist’s studio. The space of creation par excellence. The place where inspiration is born, turns into an idea, passes through design, and becomes pure realisation. Here the canvas and the paintbrush meet, as well as the pencil and the sheet, the craftsman’s hand and the material. These gestures are experiments in an innate everyday life, which becomes an exploration of the world and the future. Timeless style is a confident gesture that shapes the narrative of fashion. Between optimism and inspiration. Between art and creation. Between sensory experience and tactile aspect. The texture becomes that of everyday life, of the passing of time, comprehensible to all. What more beautiful paradox than lightness created by the craftsman’s hand, functionality sublimated into aesthetics? A new femininity. Thin and strong. Seductive and confident. Functional and repeated.


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