MANIFESTO

#62

NEW MODERN REALISM

GHESQUIÈRE OCTOBER 2014

2023.09.20

Text by Lucrezia Sgualdino

The GO-14 bag, an acronym for Ghesquière October 2014, originated as one of the first creations to mark the designer’s debut at the head of the Louis Vuitton Maison.

Within the Creative Director’s stylistic research is the desire to pay homage to a unique history and heritage. Louis Vuitton’s tradition also precedes the creation of the Maison itself, the beginning of a craftsmanship that is truly appreciated and unique in its attention and quality gives rise to highly specialized work, flanked by the novelty of customization translated into attentive listening to the customer’s needs. Nicolas Ghesquière encapsulates a multiplicity of viewpoints in GO-14, including his personal creative flair, the research of a true artisan, the revisiting of contemporary trends, and the secrets of impeccable technique. From the outset, the bag becomes a clear message of attention to the future that the designer would carry forward in his stylistic choices. Indeed, it appears with an angular and modern shape, yet telling clear references to the past as inspired by fabrics and composition from the padded interior of an 1858 trunk.

Full look Louis Vuitton. Photography Joan Braun, fashion Isabel Bonner. Muse Issue 62.

“There are certain universal codes that exist only in Louis Vuitton. It was just a matter of reappropriating them and transferring them to a new context.”

– Nicolas Ghesquière

The technical realization of the bag is expertly incredible. The assembly of the Malletage pattern involves 20 steps, is made from diagonal lines that intersect with each other, and designed as the interior lining of trunks to keep documents firm and tidy while traveling. The stitching for the manufacturing process is 17 meters long, made with incredible precision exactly because of its complexity. Another clear reference to the details that have made the brand’s history is the twist lock variant of the Trapèze clutch bag first seen in 1988, with the iconic LV initials. The adjustable chain gives a second spotlight to the accessory, and allows for versatile wearability. Indeed, it can be worn on or over the shoulder, on the elbow, or in the hand thanks to the notching mechanism that allows the chain to move to double and shorten its length. Nearly a decade after its first appearance, the proposal is once again becoming an object of desire. The new GO-14 is a classic item, representing the story of a defining chapter in a brand’s heritage and its craftsmanship, the realization of a modern and sophisticated vision of Louis Vuitton’s unmistakable character.

fall 2023 ready-to-wear.
spring 2015 ready-to-wear.
spring 2015 ready-to-wear.
fall 2023 ready-to-wear.
fall 2023 ready-to-wear.

PAUL KOOIKER

FASHION

2023.11.21

Art Paper Edition publishes a 10-chapter story called Fashion, where Paul Kooiker’s eye tries to articulate his personal horizon on contemporary fashion.

FASHION

A CREATIVE PATH

2023.11.17

24 years old Hubert de Givenchy founded the brand of the same name and some seventy years have passed since then, which are finely recounted in the Maison’s only monograph through original catwalk photographs.

SL RIVE DROIT

THRILL ME

2023.10.26

Saint Laurent Rive Droite presents THRILL ME, a selection of limited edition products designed by Anthony Vaccarello. The collection is an enticing mix of dark elegance and avant-garde design.

Collection SS24

CELINE TOMBOY

2023.10.20

In the large spaces of the Bibliothèque Nationale in Paris, Celine presents Tomboy, the Spring – Summer 2024 collection. Not an in-person fashion show, but a video shot by the creative director Hedi Slimane himself, who once again chooses to play with the possible ways of communication.

THE SEASON

The intimate dimension of Loro Piana

2023.10.19

For Autumn Winter 2023-2024 Collection Cocooning returns, a compromise of relaxed and elegant clothes made from the finest cashmere. Perfectly embodies the Maison’s dedication to craftsmanship and the incomparable charm of Loro Piana’s intimate dimension.