MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

ARMANI WAVE

2024.01.15

Text by Francesca Fontanesi

Emporio Armani sets sail with determination amidst the storm, presenting double-breasted tennis-striped dresses and short spencers that graze the waistline, inspired by 18th-century England. New uniforms, monochrome and decisive, encapsulated in ultra-cold Henley necklines and snug cuts. Radiant with innovation, the collection unfolds like the beam of a lighthouse, accompanied Il mare d’inverno, sung by the unmistakably Italian Loredana Berté.

The winter sea

is a concept that thought does not consider.

 

Tops in navy style with bows, cut for a cocktail party on land as well as on a boat, ultra-cold Henley necklines, and snug tops. But also generously volumed pants, traverse pea coats, vests, and chest harnesses skillfully layered over jackets and peacoats. Elegant and sporty, refined and decisive, dreamy and pragmatic; Giorgio Armani‘s continuous innovative vein is evident in a key series based on faded denim, armored gray coats, and dustcoats adorned with rhinestones: Emporio Armani is the first fashion show to appear in the Maison Armani roster this season, and it does so with a very specific intent. While the Spring Summer 23 transported its faithful to a refined summer vacation with a collection entitled A Basketful of Summer,  in the Men FW24-25 Atlantico, everything sparkles, like the beam of a lighthouse dancing confidently on the waves of a stormy ocean. Double-breasted tennis micro-striped dresses for women and short oversized men’s spencers inspired by late 18th-century England stand out in the collection, including new jackets and coats, in a palette of sartorial shapes that fades from midnight blue to gray–the colors of Casa Armani–juxtaposed with ice white. Towards the end, a series of shadowy looks with double-faced outerwear and a pair of crystal-adorned pants. Loredana Berté provides the soundtrack in front of a completely dark and misty lighthouse, built in the Armani space and designed by architect Tadao Ando, south of the Lombard capital.

The winter sea, cold and tempestuous. An ocean that connects continents. Ships plow through it, leaving ports and shipyards, and the characters that inhabit them: sailors, deckhands, machinists, officers. Adventure, set against an open backdrop, is one of the themes that deeply defines the spirit of Emporio Armani, along with absolute open-mindedness.

A sense of portside elegance prevails: long coats, sailor jackets, even leather ones, and hats paying homage to a enduringly charming code. Shirts are replaced by tops crafted from the same fabrics as blazers and trousers: a new, monochrome, and decisive uniform. Overalls and rubberized oversized shirts nod to shipboard work, while beaten wools mingle with denim, used for coats, jackets, and tailored trousers. Tweed patterns, pinstripes, and flocking adorn surfaces, always in a single color. Even metallic embroidery on jackets, shirts, and coats carries an adventurous rather than decorative flavor, resembling encrustations akin to those the open sea leaves on ship hulls.

I worked on the silhouette, starting from the shoulders, which are now broad, square, and decisive”, explains Giorgio Armani. “This was the starting point for the entire movement of the collection, which is mostly tailored, slim, and clean, suitable for today’s style: I explore the fluid transition between masculine and feminine, which is natural to me”. In the spirit of transcending boundaries, the proposal is complemented by a selection of garments for women, re-adapted and resized with the utmost naturalness, but also with a typically Armanian radicalism. This is seen even more clearly in evening dresses, precious and enriched with embroidery and floral embellishments or pointed studs that capture aesthetic sentiments without any aggression. Here are those broad and well-defined shoulders, anchored to the ground by lace-up shoes with high soles, which, when combined with gaiters, become soft boots. In fact, the same men’s garments adapted and resized for women retain their character but undergo a gentle transformation. Handbag-like bags, with thick mesh details and large pouches, complete the collection, which does not rule out stiletto heels. For a journey always in Armani style.

“I have never hidden my love for the sea, a symbol of freedom and adventure. However, this season, I have pondered the Atlantic and its crossings, and the ships that sailed its waters. It is my way of exploring the spirit of Emporio, with an emphasis on the fluid transition between masculine and feminine, which feels natural to me but always remains radical.”

–Giorgio Armani

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