MANIFESTO

#61

ART NOW

soft swell

2022.09.22

Text by Guia Ortolani

A chill attitude permeates Dsquared2 Spring-Summer 2023 Collection, defined by a beachside light and shimmery wardrobe.

Sheer overlapping transparencies, bright translucent layers, summer lightheartedness that recalls the comings and goings of the waves. The first look perfectly embodies the mood of the collection: a light blue sheer lace jacket with a fade-away check shirt, with a techno tulle printed skirt. The softness of the waves are evoked by rouches and delicate ruffles on leather and draped dresses, see-through bike shorts, vertical painterly stripes on pants. Peekaboo layers, cuts, opened jackets, highlight the collection’s sensuality. Scuba zips on nude sequined mini dresses unzip to reveal a cheeky flash of skin. A leather eyelet lace dress is cut away and placed on top of another sleeveless check printed dress.

Classic summer sportswear has a sexy twist, and surf Jamaican inspiration is cool and vibrant. Dean&Dan revisited their fashion through an “easy” simplification, mixing fabrics with classic checks and prints, sheer tulle and scuba vests, vibrant sparkling pailettes, and colorful prints. Printed nylon oversized shorts are paired with micro bikini tops or re-styled into mini-skirts and paired with ribbed or crochet crop tops. Scuba fabric has been revived through and iridescent finish that gleams metallic green to purple, styled into a narrow skirt and a cropped jacket. Lace illuminating jackets are worn on check pants, while transparent PVC jackets and skirts feature white seams, and green python printed leather is cut into a low-waisted skirt with double buckles, and a glossy jacket—paired to contrast with pale blue see-through lace wide leg pants.

“It is a matter of simplification of life and way of living, the search for a simple lifestyle in which the overlapping transparencies of clothes leave the possibility of seeing reality,”

– Dean & Dan Caten

Wet look jersey biking tops have a lacquered finish. Dsquared2 denim is presented in a new cut for the season, the Traveller jean has a wide leg and a paint-spotted wash, with its slouchy, oversized boyfriend denim jacket. Signature beachy style of terry suiting meets the denim world. The same material is in accessories including heeled clog sandals and roomy totes, made for gliding around coastal locales. Pointy patent pumps with high décolleté lift the look to the peak of the wave, together with tribal earrings and crisply printed patterned D2 shoulder bags or slouchy straw beach bags. Wrap-around unisex sunglasses have iridescent lenses and scuba style neoprene keepers strap on the back of their heads to keep sunglasses in place, ensuring she doesn’t lose them when the swell is up.

RIVE DROITE

SAINT LAURENT BY
VANESSA BEECROFT

2023.02.15

Saint Laurent invites Vanessa Beecroft to photograph the Spring 23 collection: a selection of 14 polaroids is on display at Rive Droite stores in Paris and Los Angeles. 

COLLECTION

Gucci Après-Ski

2022.12.15

The Maison presents the new Gucci Après-Ski collection, a selection of garments designed for a luxurious and refined high-altitude season told through a retro campaign inspired by the relaxed atmosphere of winter holidays.

JACQUEMUS

"LE RAPHIA"

2022.12.13

Under a relentless rain of raffia, that breaks in like a summer storm, Jacquemus presents its new Spring Summer 2023 collection, titled “Le Raphia”. The natural fiber becomes the undisputed star moving from its raw essence to being extremely luxurious.

CELINE

Age of Indieness

2022.12.12

Age of Indieness spotlights an aesthetic raised from the indie-sleaze era of the 1990s and early 2000s, Celine’s Winter 2023 collection, designed by Hedi Slimane, walk the catwalk at the Wiltern Theatre in the heart of Los Angeles.

Fashion

Chanel
Métiers d’Art

2022.12.09

The Chanel Métiers d’Art 2022/23 collection, presented under the artistic direction of Virginie Viard, parades at the Palais de Justice in Dakar, capital of Senegal. The show is unique in terms of creativity, and a tribute to the savoir-faire of the place.