MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

REBEAUTIFY

2024.01.14

Text by Francesca Fontanesi

Textural elements and sartorial forms. Rough yet refined fabrics. Dsquared2 propels the FW24-25 collection into a sci-fi realm: the raw essence surfaces in detailed denim, checkered shirts, and logoed D2 clutches, harmoniously complementing layers of sheer chiffon, velvet, and silver sequins. Metamorphosis is the key, as Dsquared2’s distinctive codes transform seamlessly from day to night.

If, for Dsquared2, the undisputed protagonists of the past winter were the geek, the jock, the goth, the emo, and the femme, deconstructed and reassembled with contemporary conviction, this year Dan and Dean Caten have transported their collection into a white and austere, almost surgical space, where the FW24-25 pieces paraded surrounded by an atmosphere worthy of a sci-fi movie. The Dsquared2 man rides the wave with massive trekking boots and oversized parkas, while the woman fearlessly ventures forth protected only by long shearling jackets. The raw aesthetic is personified in the layered and robust styles that Dsquared2 has expertly conquered over the past twenty-nine years: ultra-detailed denim with jeans splattered with mud and snow, patched and weathered, checkered shirts cinched at the waist, distressed sweatshirts, rips, chains, and weathered cotton tank tops. Jackets in scratched leather and fringed fur outerwear are thrown over Fair Isle patterned sweaters, named after the Scottish island that made them iconic. A blend of oversized and slouchy, cropped and body-skimming styles. A shift in direction for eveningwear: a focus on tailoring reigns supreme. Sparkling and sensual, sharp and fitted, with plunging collars and metal and stone jewelry. Fabrics like glossy ponyhair, oversized sequins, python skin, and velvet emit an erotic gleam. This time, the idea of metamorphosis permeates the entire collection: a tribe of young explorers straight from the 2000s passes through a magical machine that transforms them into true glamorous visions, icons of Reagan-era ’80s hedonism.

Sidling up to the makeover machine, they enter..and click, they stride out, changed. Standing taller, they are buffed, polished and shimmering. Once used and worn, they are spanking new.

“Dean is more flamboyant and more exaggerated, and I am more grounded and more serious. I think those two elements are what makes the twin connection perfect.”

–Dean e Dan Caten

For the evening, transparent chiffon shirts cinch at the waist, while low-rise trousers with flared ankles are crafted from velvet or glossy printed python leather. Coordinated ensembles feature sequined bomber jackets and trousers, paired with slinky lurex tops. A patchwork hooded jacket transforms into a men’s black bouclé jacket at night, adorned with buttons and gold crystals. Feminine looks are layered with washed grey jerseys, denim jeans transformed into floor-length skirts, mini feather-adorned dresses, and ruched silk garments. Even bags and shoes play with the concepts of rough and refined. Worn suede duffel bags and gothic jacquard knit belt bags contrast with D2 back-to-back logoed clutches for both men and women in satin and python-printed leather. Sneakers, military shoes, and sasquatch make way for men’s boots with a slight heel and women’s ankle-strap high heels, both styles elongating the leg and accentuating elegance. Jewelry created with sparkling colored stones set in long chains of polished golden metal completes the transformation. Fueled by two seemingly similar yet different creative Yin & Yangs, the metamorphosis depicted on the runway for Fall/Winter 2024 is interpreted by various pairs of twins wearing Dsquared2 outfits, exploring all the distinctive codes of the brand as they transition from day to night.

POWER IS OUTSPOKEN

2024.02.28

An elegant sense of power pervades the latest Saint Laurent runway. There’s a duality that merges elegance and provocation, a carnal convergence between garment and body. Revisiting Yves’s codes, blouses, shirts, ultra-tight skirts, and silk dresses culminate in a powerful aesthetic imagery.

Creative freedom

2024.02.28

A collection that rethinks the concept of fashion as a manifestation of power and full representation of creativity, investigating the historical legacy and future of femininity. The looks in Dior’s FW24 collection convey the radiant power of a pluralistic, autonomous and versatile femininity, reactivating that key moment of creative freedom of which Miss Dior is the emblem.

FALL/WINTER 24

Impalpable Visions

2024.02.26

Armani opts for a palette of jewel tones and a novel emphasis on black. The attention to embroidered details marries simple elegance, while a message of poetry and hope shines through the outlines of winter flowers.

Jil Sander

Minimal frills, maximum impact

2024.02.25

The FW24 collection by Jil Sander is abundant in rounded silhouettes and soft lines, yet with character. The balance between form and comfort fills the enveloping coats and sartorial details: each piece reflects a constant pursuit of effortless sophistication.

COLLECTION

SPIRIT

2024.02.25

The Fall Winter 2024 collection by Maximilian Davis is an interpretation of the 1920s through a modern lens, particularly inspiring as it offers a new perspective on the elegance and rebellion of that era.