MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

The next dressing code

2022.03.02

By Guia Ortolani

Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri alternates in every collection Dior’s heritage to the continuous present of fashion, that holds the future.

For FW22 collection, The Next era is the title of the environmental ambience of the show, by the Italian feminist artist Mariella Bettineschi, who proposes a gallery of the greatest female portraits of the history of paining and rethinks the objectification of women and girls that is still part of today’s reality.

The opening look is a black bodysuit with green fluo outline, an aesthetic detail that has both the function to maintains a constant body temperature: one of the results of a collaboration with D-Air Lab, a technical specialist Italian company which makes safe, functional clothing and materials for sports, industrial and other non-fashion purposes.

The Bar jacket, as for the second look, is again revisited under a modern and functional vision, making it become another climate regulator. 

The Next Era is also a temporal short circuit, where high rider boots meet the the iconic Dior shoes designed by Roger Vivier reimagined through embroidery and ‘protective’ ankle straps.

The color palette is wided, Dior’s sober gray and black are brightened by fluorescent colors hints, as  in long tight purple socks and in a variety of details.

Precise sober ’50s gray tailoring, chiffon sheer dresses and romantic headbands that recall the surrounding works of art,

find the perfect balance with protective conventionally masculine biker jackets and shoulder pads.

The adjustable corset, part of brand’s DNA, and the skirts, in a range of fabrics and lengths, are thought to allow a new dressing code,

in a metamorphic collection where textures as cashmere and nylon are pushed further with delicate embroidery.

This time more than ever, craftsmanship meets and evolves into technology, as for knitwear, made by computerized machine and

for couture gloves long to armpits, highest quality technical pieces as bikers’ ones.

The collection expresses the complexity of the instances that cross contemporary fashion as an itinerant and progressive practice:

a path that composes the artifact of another world, no longer received, but manufactured.

” We use technology more for communication, and think less about how it can help us to live better. We are used to expecting it in very practical things, but not enough in fashion. ”

– Maria Grazia Chiuri

DESIGN

A RADICAL THINKER

2024.04.19

The exhibition Nice to See You, set up within the spaces of the Biblioteca Ambrosiana, is one of the greatest tributes to the life and career of Gaetano Pesce. On display are objects with dual meaning, that of utility and that of provoking thought.

BIENNALE

MATERIAL AND IMMATERIAL

2024.04.19

Monte di Pietà, the new exhibition by Fondazione Prada in Venice, explores the concept of debt as the root of human society and the primary vehicle through which political and cultural power is exercised.

MDW

SOFT GEOMETRIES

2024.04.19

Poliform enters the stage with a comprehensive proposal of the concept of space, increasingly elegant and refined. Jean-Marie Massaud, Emmanuel Gallina, and for the first time, Stefano Belingardi Clusoni, sign the main product innovations.

VENICE

A Belmond Train

2024.04.18

The legendary Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, A Belmond Train, rewrites history with L’Observatoire. Designed by JR, it will be presented at the Venice Biennale.

NEWS

LOEWE LAMPS

2024.04.17

LOEWE’s exhibition at the 2024 Salone del Mobile reflects the brand’s constant investment in craftsmanship and its dedication to collaborating with artists within and beyond its immediate production. Among these are Alvaro Barrington, Akiko Hirai, and Jennifer Lee.