MANIFESTO

#61

ART NOW

The next dressing code

2022.03.02

By Guia Ortolani

Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri alternates in every collection Dior’s heritage to the continuous present of fashion, that holds the future.

For FW22 collection, The Next era is the title of the environmental ambience of the show, by the Italian feminist artist Mariella Bettineschi, who proposes a gallery of the greatest female portraits of the history of paining and rethinks the objectification of women and girls that is still part of today’s reality.

The opening look is a black bodysuit with green fluo outline, an aesthetic detail that has both the function to maintains a constant body temperature: one of the results of a collaboration with D-Air Lab, a technical specialist Italian company which makes safe, functional clothing and materials for sports, industrial and other non-fashion purposes.

The Bar jacket, as for the second look, is again revisited under a modern and functional vision, making it become another climate regulator. 

The Next Era is also a temporal short circuit, where high rider boots meet the the iconic Dior shoes designed by Roger Vivier reimagined through embroidery and ‘protective’ ankle straps.

The color palette is wided, Dior’s sober gray and black are brightened by fluorescent colors hints, as  in long tight purple socks and in a variety of details.

Precise sober ’50s gray tailoring, chiffon sheer dresses and romantic headbands that recall the surrounding works of art,

find the perfect balance with protective conventionally masculine biker jackets and shoulder pads.

The adjustable corset, part of brand’s DNA, and the skirts, in a range of fabrics and lengths, are thought to allow a new dressing code,

in a metamorphic collection where textures as cashmere and nylon are pushed further with delicate embroidery.

This time more than ever, craftsmanship meets and evolves into technology, as for knitwear, made by computerized machine and

for couture gloves long to armpits, highest quality technical pieces as bikers’ ones.

The collection expresses the complexity of the instances that cross contemporary fashion as an itinerant and progressive practice:

a path that composes the artifact of another world, no longer received, but manufactured.

” We use technology more for communication, and think less about how it can help us to live better. We are used to expecting it in very practical things, but not enough in fashion. ”

– Maria Grazia Chiuri

PHOTOGRAPHY

LUIGI & IANGO. UNVEILED

2023.09.21

A visionary creative expression characterized by breaking roles and codes, the invention and construction of characters that create a unique visual narrative, but above all reveal a truth that only Luigi & Iango know how to capture.

LOUIS VUITTON

GHESQUIÈRE OCTOBER 2014

2023.09.20

The GO-14 bag, an acronym for Ghesquière October 2014, originated as one of the first creations to mark the designer’s debut at the head of the Louis Vuitton Maison.

BRITISH OUTDOORS

2023.09.19

A classic tale treated with irreverence by the creative inspiration of Daniel Lee, Burberry Summer 24 collection tells all the elements of the brand’s tradition through a fresh, modern lens.

NEWS

On Foot

2023.09.19

The exhibition On Foot, curated by Jonathan Anderson at Offer Waterman Gallery, will bring contemporary artists in dialogue with works of modern British Art and some interventions conceived by the designer himself.

EXHIBITION

MODE ET SPORT. D'UN PODIUM À L'AUTRE

2023.09.18

Ahead of the 2024 Olympics, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris presents Mode et Sport: from September 20th 2023 will be possible to discover the fascinating interconnections between fashion and sport from the ancient world to the present day.