MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

CHANEL 2021/22 MÉTIERS D’ART

2022.06.10

For the second défilé of the collection, the Creative Director Virginie Viard brings an air of elegance and iconicity to the streets of the Florentine capital, as the industrial style of the former Leopolda railway station is transformed into a candid catwalk.

A long catwalk with soft lighting accompanies the guests inside the first hall, where an evocative scenario opens up thanks to the projections of the three short films projected for the collection, until they reach the real setting of the fashion show. A white room, surrounded by soft white curtains and giant camellias, which make the setting unique. In fact, this time it is Chanel’s own camellia the star, acting as a reminder of the animations created by Remembers studio for the collection.

“The 2022 Métiers d’Art collection is very metropolitan yet sophisticated, tweed jackets with sweatshirt sleeves, graffiti-style embroidery in colored beads by Lesage, voluminous purple or royal blue knit Bermuda short-outfits, and casual coats worn open…”

– Virginie Viard

Guests are greeted and transported by stories of fantastic worlds, while a metropolitan yet chic and sophisticated style proposition takes centre stage. In fact, it appears contaminated by an urban and glamorous charm, a mix that does not forget the iconic tweed in different colours, combined with a patchwork effect to knitted sleeves and embellished with coloured bead details applied to the garment. The silhouettes remain sensual and elegant despite the softness conferred by some of the fabrics chosen. Oversized dresses, maxi-lengths and logoed garments: colour is the master, bold and intense shades of mustard, purple and blue, highlighting the sublime French savoir faire. Many of the silver sequin embroideries refer to the structure of Parisian buildings, a complexity of architecture that is also echoed in the contrasting pockets of an outstanding black tweed column coat. A look at the world of streetwear towards the desire to be comfy, faded jeans and baggy knit trousers with gold chains, cardigans and bomber jackets with large patch pockets. The details are not left to chance, the modern elegance of each look is combined with Mary Jane pumps in a clear reference to the 80s aesthetics with layered maxi necklaces and small, colourful jewellery bags.

“…many of the embroideries are inspired by the structure of the building itself, such as those by Montex, which are very graphic and in silver sequins.”

– Virginie Viard

Present at the event were ambassadors Penélope Cruz, Caroline de Maigret and Angèle. At their side were Italian actresses Coco Rebecca Edogamhe, Linda Caridi, Fotini Peluso, Alma Noce and Caterina De Angelis; together with Sofia Coppola and Dimitri Chamblas. At the end of the day, the stars of the afterparty were leading figures from the world of music, including singer Angèle, Korean DJ Peggy Gou and the band Le Feste Antonacci, who performed in a third room amidst sandy-coloured draperies and colourful jewelled buttons, involving the audience for the entire evening.

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MILAN

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