MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

BACK TO DEAUVILLE

2024.03.05

Text by Francesca Fontanesi

The colors of FW24 by Chanel celebrate the skies of Normandy, while masculine suits bring balance to a distinctly French sophistication, ethereal yet grounded.

Square-cut tweeds, wide-leg trousers, cascades of jewelry, and Belle Époque necklines. The Twenties and Seventies intersect and intertwine. The shapes are androgynous and cinematic. Wide-shouldered coats and long overcoats with slim waist belts in robe de soir style are worn over tweed suits – pleated skirts, culottes, or short pants – with palazzo trousers in the front and side-tabbed ones at the back. Voluminous navy sweaters and tops printed with scenes of Deauville landscapes alternate with silk blouses featuring sailor collars, herringbone prints, ruffled tops, jumpsuits, and negligees whose delicacy evokes long sandy coastlines and gentle breezes. The vibrant and pastel-toned color palette takes inspiration from the rosy, mauve, orange, and pale blue hues of the Normandy skies’ chromatic symbols, along with brown and golden lamé. Cozy cardigans and masculine-cut suits alternate with energetically feminine designs, especially in slip dresses; all occasionally punctuated by bolder pieces like black leather ones. The maxi wide-brimmed hats, quintessential to the brand’s heritage, are adorned with brooches and accompany extra-long knitwear pieces reminiscent of early twentieth-century holiday attire, a true expression of understated luxury. Lined utility jackets, blouse-like tops, suits, and cardigans with jewel buttons now transition from essential black to the finest pearl gray.

“It’s a very warm collection, with layers of materials, colours and volumes. It pays tribute to Deauville, the place where Gabrielle Chanel’s destiny changed forever”.

– Virginie Viard

“Everything revolves around elegance and self-presentation”.

– Virginie Viard

The preview of the runway, captured by Inez & Vinoodh, merges the essence of Normandy with the sophistication of the French Maison. Models are draped in oversized checkered tweed coats inspired by men’s attire but unequivocally Chanel in finesse and detail. A bolder interpretation emerges with a culotte suit under an oversized coat, while a simple pleated black satin dress introduces a touch of classicism. Long and lightweight dresses, airy tweed caftans, voluminous cotton but also denim trousers are accompanied by their respective accessories: low sandals, sunglasses, pearl necklaces or belts, stacked bracelets, and multiple delicate gold chains. Accessories play a key role in completing each look, with shoulder bags, quilted handbags, tweed hats, scarves, and foulards joining together to suggest an elegance that is both ethereal yet grounded. Gloves reach elbow-length and come in cream, blue, and pink hues. These pieces become complementary, contributing alongside clothing to a narrative of movement and freedom. Iconic bags are ever-present, as are knee-high heeled boots and knee-high sheepskin boots: a clear homage to the coat worn by Anouk Aimée in Claude Lelouch’s Un homme et une femme. Pointed contrast-toe shoes meet jewelry that echoes the brand’s iconography with the double C, found in large brooches on hats, earrings, and cascading necklaces over turtlenecks.

VERSACE JEANS COUTURE

METROPOLITAN NOCTURNES

2024.04.15

Drawing inspiration from the evocative work of Philip-Lorca DiCorcia, Metropolitan Nocturnes – the new Versace Jeans Couture campaign – tells the intertwined lives of four distinct individuals. Each character navigates the interaction born from the energy of Miami and their own inner landscapes.

FASHION

HIGH&LOW

2024.03.13

Through a series of exclusive interviews, Kevin Macdonald sheds new light on the creative genius of John Galliano, from his prodigious student days at Central St. Martins in London to his tenure at Dior, culminating in the 2011 incident. A kaleidoscopic portrait of one of the greatest cultural icons of the 2000s.

COLLECTION

Exceptional Frenchness

2024.03.12

Hedi Slimane perfectly balances the refined with the casual. The tweed riding jackets reinvent the Celine codes, while romantic trenches lighten the spaces of Salle Pleyel.

SAINT LAURENT

MASCULINE GRACE

2024.03.06

Anthony Vaccarello revisits classic menswear with a contemporary twist. The suits are roomy, soft, detached from the body, often in lightweight and sheer fabrics, sometimes layered. Saint Laurent’s georgette and satin are enveloped in a shadowy color palette.

FASHION

Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind

2024.03.06

Miu Miu delves into our individual life lexicons. The collection unfolds with a diverse array of interpretations of traditional uniforms and attire; surgeons, assistants, teachers, and waitresses parade down the runway. Miuccia Prada’s dark youth is captured in its tight proportions and contrasting hues. A futuristic prelude sets the stage, introducing viewers to the complexities of human memory.