MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

THERE IS LIGHT IN THE DARK

2021.05.28

Photography INEZ & VINOODH
by MUSE

In the magnetic village of Les Baux-de-Provence.

The Carrières de Lumières, in Les Baux-de-Provence was the magnetic location chosen for Chanel Cruise 2021/22 show. A highly graphic one as the simplicity, the precision and the poetry of Cocteau’s film made Virgine Viard want to create a very clean collection, “ with a very distinct two-tone, made up of bright white and deep black”. Viard’s lexicon is all about dualism and dichotomies which are subtly translated into the coherence of fabric selection like black macramé and white tweed as well as into quite a rock overall vibe: fringes, leather beads, sequins, pointed silver Mary-Janes, not to mention the customized lip piercing. As we watched the Chanel girls poetically freeing some white doves in the sky for the finale, you could recall in the looks line up “as much the modernity of the sixties as that of punk…”.

[…] Gabrielle Chanel was close to Cocteau, and I love the film Testament of Orpheus. In particular this magnificent scene: a man with a black horse’s head descends into the Carrières de Lumières, his silhouette cut out against the very white walls”.

– Virginie Viard

Chanel’s powerful storytelling literally made you want to be there, touching those gigantic white stone walls while feeling the sunlight gently kissing your skin as it sneaks through the architectural structure of the The Carrières de Lumières. The brand definitely knew how to fill the crave that the impossibility of physical presence keeps magnifying. So, there you go: six silhouettes from the collection are at the heart of a magnetic film by Inez & Vinoodh starring Lola Nicon while she moves through Gabrielle Chanel’s legendary apartment at 31 rue Cambon, in Paris, surrounded by the designer’s bestiary and her symbols.
Cherry on top, though, is the show’s final music performance as electro-pop singer Sébastien Tellier is joined on the stage by some amazing guests such as Angele, Vanessa Paradis, Juliette Armanet, and Charlotte Casiraghi.

MFW

ROME MEETS LONDON IN FENDI

2024.02.22

London nonchalance meets Roman freedom in the FW 24 FENDI collection, where utility becomes a statement of intent. Modern, comfortable clothes are inspired by British culture for visual and textile theatrical research.

Gucci

Milano Burgundy

2023.12.15

Gucci celebrates its connection with Milan through the reopening of the historic 1951 boutique in Monte Napoleone, capturing the essence of the maison in a solid and reasoned red. Shades between burgundy and cardinal accompany the spatial concepts of Lucio Fontana, as well as the fluid lines of Cassina and Minotti.

PAUL KOOIKER

FASHION

2023.11.21

Art Paper Edition publishes a 10-chapter story called Fashion, where Paul Kooiker’s eye tries to articulate his personal horizon on contemporary fashion.

FASHION

A CREATIVE PATH

2023.11.17

24 years old Hubert de Givenchy founded the brand of the same name and some seventy years have passed since then, which are finely recounted in the Maison’s only monograph through original catwalk photographs.

SL RIVE DROIT

THRILL ME

2023.10.26

Saint Laurent Rive Droite presents THRILL ME, a selection of limited edition products designed by Anthony Vaccarello. The collection is an enticing mix of dark elegance and avant-garde design.