MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

Chanel Cruise 2022/23

2022.05.06

Text by Guia Ortolani

The Creative Director Virginie Viard has made a dream come true, setting the Cruise show at the sophisticated Monaco’s Beach Hotel, as an homage to Chanel’s long bond with the Côte d’Azur. 

“To me, Monaco is a matter of feelings above all. That’s Karl, Caroline, Charlotte,” says Virginie Viard. 

A terrace by the sea where Viard recalls to her memory Karl Lagerfeld shooting the iconic ’90s supermodels, a breathtaking view, a dip where the water is bluer: this Beach backdrop was anticipated in the previous days through Collection’s trailers directed by Sofia and Roman Coppola, staging a group of girls enjoying summery vibes and motor sports.

Inspired by the Monegasque Grand Prix Formula 1 races, Virginie Viard has given a sporty-chic flair to her creations, displaying original racing driver’s all-in-ones and mechanic’s overalls pieces, customized with that Chanel timeless twist through a variety of sequins and embroideries.

The Collection is also characterized by light and flowy silk dresses, long chiffon skirts with waving starter flags prints, and the iconic woven tweed declined in all kinds of ways, such as through mini-dresses, tops, light coats, and a number of different suits and jumpsuits.

The eye-catching and next most wanted Chanel’s addict accessories are race helmets carried by models as purses, bearing Chanel’s number five.

“From very early on, I knew we would hold a show at the Beach Hotel. Besides, Karl was dreaming about it. From this magnificent venue, one can glimpse his villa, La Vigie. I will never forget the times I spent there…”

– Virginie Viard

A young and sexy allure filled long shirt dresses with high collars (a clear nod to Karl) and a number of summery mini shorts and skirts; while the magic of atelier craftspeople striked in details such as the bouquets of beautifully crafted silk flowers, sequined t shirts recalling drivers’ tops, outstanding series of evening voluminous striped dresses, and backless tops worn over wide-cut trousers.

Accessories played a key role here, layers on layers of Jewellery, such as double C interlocked chokers and chunky logo bangles, complemented the looks and the sporty theme was clear through tiny leather crossbody bags adorned with tennis racquet coin purses, handbags shaped like slot machines and necklaces shaped as handbags.

Footwear was inspired by the Monte-Carlo ballet dancers’ pointe shoes and reflected in black satin slippers adorned with thin strass buckles, while flowy and shiny swimming suits are twisted into asymmetrical black skirts or draped dresses. 

The overall mood of Viard’s breezy collection was “easy” and effortless, as joyful and laid-back summer days.

“The first time I saw Caroline was on the beach in Monaco. She was wearing a draped black dress, very thin tights and heels…”

– Virginie Viard

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