MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

BEYOND BORDERS

2023.09.24

Text by Guia Ortolani

Matthieu Blazy takes us through a physical and metaphorical journey, far away, in search of something else, and at the same time intimate, discovering the self. Clothes transform, men and women disguise and change, blending.

Bottega Veneta’s SS24 collection is an Odyssey. Traversing it is creative director Matthieu Blazy, who in designing his third collection for the brand has gone to great lengths, making us travel with our imagination. Taking off clothes of previous seasons, the business look evolves into something pleasantly unusual. The incredible craftsmanship achieves a global vision, with a range of influences from around the world. The “national dress” becomes “international dress,” tailored suits give way to primal, natural, uncoded garments.

 

The first look is an almost old fashioned one-piece swimsuit, accompanied by a large “straw” style bag made of  leather intrecciato. The simpler silhouettes of the first releases introduce adventurous garments, the result of moving away from the codes. Notable among these are the crocheted dresses with maxi pompom embellishments, the leather poncho overlaid with a leather trench coat, as well as the “shaggy” salt-and-pepper coat. The wealth of materials, fabrics and techniques used to create the clothes are found in structured suits, solid constructions, draped evening dresses and extraordinary knitwear.

“Odyssey: a free and hopeful journey. A connection to who you once were, who you would like to be and where you want to go. Odyssey is both external and internal, physical and a product of the imagination. It is a journey of transformation and escapism.”

– Matthieu Blazy

Colors and proportions come together in joyful, enthusiastic, dreamy play. Bangs are repeated in layers, in abundance, and the garments take on a life of their own, dynamic, constantly moving. The raffia and rope of dresses and suits are all surprisingly made of fine leathers, like the thin colored stripes that characterize a skirt and a dress both emblematic of different worlds’ encounter in this collection, such as South America, Brittany, Southeast Asia… leather alternates with tactile, highly sophisticated materials, sometimes voluminous and enveloping.

 

The optical illusion continues to amaze especially through the accessories, the apotheosis of travel trinkets… “banana leaf” sandals (actually made of leather), leather newspapers from around the world that turn into Foulard bags, oversized Sardine in ceramic and intrecciato that take on an almost unprecedented look. Mini and maxi, this time the accessories are more imaginative than ever, inspired by nature, with a nod to sea animals, such as the coral-colored fringe bucket bag. A collection that goes beyond the boundaries, and makes us wonder again, through a distant imagination that expresses itself with precise and concrete forms: dresses of cactus and Nautilus shells, flowers, fireworks and rock formations. The personal pleasure of being whoever and whatever one wants to be, of traveling in fantasy as well as over the world through clothing, is the coveted fruit of research.

“There is a need to reconnect to a primordial world made of animals, minerals and plants. It’s like collecting shells: beautiful, meaningful or insignificant. It is connected to the beauty of small wonders and natural treasures. It is embracing something spontaneous: these are clothes without codes.”

– Matthieu Blazy

FW24

Creative freedom

2024.02.28

A collection that rethinks the concept of fashion as a manifestation of power and full representation of creativity, investigating the historical legacy and future of femininity. The looks in Dior’s FW24 collection convey the radiant power of a pluralistic, autonomous and versatile femininity, reactivating that key moment of creative freedom of which Miss Dior is the emblem.

COLLECTION

SPIRIT

2024.02.25

The Fall Winter 2024 collection by Maximilian Davis is an interpretation of the 1920s through a modern lens, particularly inspiring as it offers a new perspective on the elegance and rebellion of that era.

BOTTEGA VENETA

RESILIENCE

2024.02.25

Like the scorched landscape that offers its harsh yet fertile land, Bottega Veneta’s FW collection invites reflection and hope. It is a testament to the inner strength that emerges from the trial by fire, conveying a message of resilience and rebirth as life’s challenges are faced.

MILAN

Elegance and Tradition

2024.02.24

To celebrate and renew the invitation to an open dialogue with the city of Milan, Loro Piana FW24 reiterates its delicate and calm language of making fashion, a Loro Piana method, that is, the absolute search toward the consistency of product history and above all a sustainable and reliable fashion idea.

FW24

Nightly Tribute

2024.02.23

Emporio Armani pays homage to a luminous night sky, quilted with stars and ruled by a shining moon. The FW 24 collection captures a chromatic sensation and translates it into wearable forms.