Maria Grazia Chiuri reflects on the Maison’s codes, its history, its past, and the passage of time. Time is the rhythm that marks change, the evolution of fashion and ideas. The dress is identified as a true representation of the person, character, trend, time, era, environment, and inspiration. At the same time, fashion transforms into a daily performance. Clear references include Orlando by Virginia Woolf, Gianfranco Ferré, and John Galliano. While the first explores the sociocultural investigation of clothing, the two fashion references are more explicit and didactic, materialising in the vision of the collection. In Orlando, clothing is described as an element capable of defining gender, context, and character, a unique fashion language, and a hand that marks the passing of time. Ferré led the Maison from 1989 to 1996, bringing his postmodern vision of fashion. His homage to Dior’s symbols is always direct, yet reinterpreted through a sculptural elegance characteristic of his touch. He was succeeded by Galliano, a free spirit, rebellious and extravagant, who reinvented Haute Couture and gave free rein to his imagination. His eclectic spirit merged with artisanal mastery, resulting in an extraordinary cultural elevation.
The show is diverse, with multiple and varied proposals. There are sporty looks and long dresses, short and structured cuts, flowing lengths, transparencies, and covering fabrics. The materials also change, evolve, and look beyond, toward transformation and innovation: chiffon and tulle, leather and sheepskin, velvet and damask. Jackets can be worn with or without a corset, which becomes removable and features zippers with a rock-inspired aesthetic. The white shirts, so dear to Ferré, are revisited with ruffles and pleats, inspired by Woolf’s pages. Crinolines take on maxi volumes, while the iconic J’Adore Dior t-shirts by Galliano return to the runway. Bombers and trench coats become innovative in technical fabrics, while jacquard velvet dresses are light and versatile. The color palette is a journey through the heritage codes of the Maison. The collection opens with warm beige tones, followed by touches of black and optical white, with accents of red and deep midnight blue.
Once again, Maria Grazia Chiuri aims to pay tribute to collective work, inspirations, details, and garments. Everything feels like a grand journey through the brand’s collections, a step-by-step exploration of the anatomy of a strong identity. Maison Dior asserts its contemporary sensibility, expressed through a celebration of artisanal savoir-faire that honours its own roots. Fashion, therefore, is not merely an exercise in style, as it may seem to many, but rather a narrative and an expression. The collection becomes a true manifesto of conscious femininity, in a perfect balance between bold innovation and fascinating heritage.
