At Milan Fashion Week, Ferragamo’s Creative Director, Maximilian Davis, unveiled the Autumn/Winter 2025 collection—a tribute to the art of dance—before a front row that included Amiaya, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Isabella Ferrari, Lucky Blue Smith, Nara Smith, Martina Ferragamo, and Michelle Monaghan.
The runway, theatrically scattered with red rose petals, set the scene for the models who donned oversized wool coats and silk gowns, embodying the grace of German choreographer Pina Bausch, who’s renowned for her avant-garde, dance-theatre style that blends movement, emotion, and storytelling. As such, fluidity defined many of the silhouettes, with generous sizing, and this was offset with tailoring that created a balance between structure and softness. The colour palette offered neutrals of caramel and rich brown leather, and this was punctuated with red—cue the statement, all-over feather dress in fiery crimson.
“The twenties were a moment of freedom, of people rebelling and creating spaces for themselves,” says Davis – and straight-cut silken slips are inset with drop-waist lace appliqué, or collaged with strips of shearling, while the era’s uniform details are applied to utilitarian leathers and tailoring. Dreamlike prints appear in flashes, while handbags are surrealistically filled with fur and off-stage wardrobes are entirely knitted from jersey yarn in fluid reconfigurations of familiar forms. “The surrealist idea of taking everyday objects and making them feel a little disturbed is something I feel very interesting,” explains Davis. “Creating a sense of discomfort in the expected.”
There was also intricate petal embroidery that featured on both dresses and footwear, that incorporated the House’s floral campaigns of the ‘80s. Looking back further, another source of influence, rooted in the house’s heritage, came from a 1950’s photograph of founder Salvatore Ferragamo fitting shoes for legendary dancer Katherine Dunham—a homage to heritage, reimagined through modern artistry.
Here, blooms were crafted from organza, leather, satin, and applied to almond-toe pumps, and sandals that wrapped around the calves. For men, classic brogues and booties are refigured with zip fastenings, and in a rugged texture with heavy-grained leather. The floral themed continued through to the accessories, as we saw organza flowers on evening bags, while a new interpretation of the Hug bag, across the body and as a feathered pouch.
