MANIFESTO

#65

MUSE TWENTY FANZINE

The heart and soul of Givenchy

2025.03.07

Text by Lucrezia Sgualdino

A look at the past to move forward—Sarah Burton presents her first collection for Givenchy, telling the story of every aspect of the contemporary woman.

With the Fall/Winter 2025 collection for Givenchy, a new chapter begins. Creative Director Sarah Burton unveils her first collection for the French Maison—an ode to femininity, celebrating the female body in all its characteristics. It is both revealed and concealed through technical aspects of garment construction that enhance its shapes and lines. The structure of the silhouettes echoes a classic style: cinched waists, broad and structured shoulders, and a white dress paying homage to the brand’s history. Iconic elegance merges with the softness of fabrics, the fluidity of lengths alternating in layered compositions, material contrasts, and voluminous abundance. Femininity becomes strong, powerful, and free to transform and be experienced. This narrative embraces a modern romanticism with rock influences, rediscovering the true DNA of the brand in a seamless connection between dressmaking and tailoring. For this collection, Burton chooses to look back in time, picking up a conversation that had been left behind in recent years. The year is 1952, at Hubert de Givenchy’s first fashion show—a presentation that spoke of technical composition, purity, and formal minimalism. The garments presented today are stripped down to their core, to their very essence. They have no embellishments, no unnecessary details, going straight to the point—delivering the key message without distractions.

“To move forward, we must return to the origins. The atelier, for me, is everything: the heart and soul of Givenchy.”

– Sarah Burton

The runway collection blends sartorial precision with experimentation. The silhouettes are impeccable, featuring structured shoulders and hourglass lines; jackets and coats are sharply cut, crisp, and decisive; trousers explore new forms, allowing freedom of movement; dresses reveal bare backs, crafted from endless drapes of fabric. Sensuality is bold, empowering the woman who embodies it. Seemingly modest front lines transform into provocative deep back necklines. Dresses shorten to reveal legs. The classic white shirt becomes a dress. Lingerie is reinvented with unconventional materials. Iconic bows take on sculptural, voluminous forms.

 

Accessories also express desire—starting with rock-inspired latex boots, followed by squared patent loafers, and culminating in tulle mules, sandals wrapped in intertwined ribbons, and pumps with sinuous heels. The two handbags, The Pinch and The Facet, are presented in various versions—clutch and shoulder—enriched with details that also appear in the jewellery: fragments of glass chandeliers, pearls, or crystals add luminosity to the looks, becoming unexpected elements in statement earrings and bold bracelets.

“It is a natural instinct for me to return to pattern construction, to craftsmanship. Shaping, sculpting, finding the balance of proportions. It is what I feel, my way of working, what I want to do.”

– Sarah Burton

In conclusion, the journey of this new chapter for the Maison begins again with the formal elegance of its origins. Alongside a technical investigation and a study of the brand’s representative history, Burton’s creativity emerges. Thoughtful and dedicated, she crafts a clear and determined narrative that does not lose itself in dark alleys or flashy, superficial details. Fashion becomes desire. A tangible connection to Hubert de Givenchy’s working method was rediscovered during the renovation of 8 Avenue Alfred de Vigny: a hidden, walled-in wardrobe containing an archive of patterns from the brand’s very first runway show in 1952. From these muslin patterns, Burton recognises elements that resonate with her own creative process—from draping on mannequins to dress fittings—in a continuous dialogue between the studio and the atelier. The vision conceived and expressed for the upcoming season is a tribute to couture, infused with an innovative perspective on the creative energy of the future.

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IM MEN

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