Issey Miyake founded his namesake brand in 1970 with a vision that merged technology, craftsmanship, and artistic experimentation. Now, 55 years later, under the creative direction of Satoshi Kondo, the Fall ’25 collection which was presented at Carrousel du Louvre in Paris and titled [N]either [N]orcontinues to uphold these founding principles while exploring ambiguity, seeking to connect contrasting elements through materiality, form, and meaning.
Drawing inspiration from mid-century Austrian artist Erwin Wurm, the collection explores sculpture and form, delivering shape-shifting designs that balance fluidity and structure–staying true to the brand’s minimalist yet avant-garde aesthetic.
Renowned for innovations like Pleats Please and A-POC (A Piece of Cloth), which revolutionised fabric manipulation and movement, Issey Miyake once again pushes boundaries as we see standout pieces like accordion-folded coats and pleated striped looks that change in form and texture depending on movement. There are 2D and 3D elements too, and through advanced printing technologies, optical illusions are paired with sculptural silhouettes.
Key pieces include the Torso Shirt and Torso Blazer that take on sculptural forms, while the Odd Shirt offers a host of styling possibilities through its transformable features. The Paper Bag, which has been around since the ‘90s, continue to challenge convention by turning a paper bag into a wearable item, printed with designs from an imaginary exhibition entitled Abstract, Concrete, and In-Between.
Then there are the Collapsing Sculpture pieces, featuring flowing yet structured designs made from washi paper and cotton, the Generic Stripes that play with optical illusions through pleating techniques, and the Panini garments that balance rigidity and softness with heat-pressed knitwear.
For the season the brand also unveils a footwear collaboration with Camper, cue Peu Form, a deconstructed shoe that adapts to the foot, blending flexibility with craftsmanship. With a focus on artistry, innovation, and wearability, the collection stays true to the brand’s original vision and reinforces Issey Miyake’s influence as a visionary in contemporary design over half a century since being established.
