MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

WHAT IS FRENCH STYLE

2023.03.07

Text by Lucrezia Sgualdino

A REFINED AND PARADOXICAL ENIGMA

 

An open book that chronicles Nicholas Ghesquière’s Fall Winter 23 collection at Louis Vuitton and asks the characteristics of French style. A question that remains unanswered, an evolving fashion with infinite fascination.

French fashion is a very present fantasy rooted in the past, it is influenced by different cultures and gathers different visions. It is a mixture of expressions and opportunities, and it is these characteristics that make it unique, special and recognizable in the world. The inspiration from which the Creative Director’s research starts is never a single idea or a single concept, but rather a set of images that allow to let one’s own person and extraordinary creative mind express themselves to the fullest. Ghesquière’s is a continuous search, dictated by great determination and a strong personality, in which characteristic elements of his person and core values of the brand are blended: tenacity and curiosity on the one hand and attention to the journey on the other. The present characterizes each study underlying the défilé presented for the coming season, elements linked to a unique heritage return to the stage presenting an evolving fashion with infinite fascination, a collection of details and stories from all over the world. The French exception therefore gathers a surprising mixture of cultures.

LOUIS VUITTON FW23 BY NICOLAS GHESQUIÈRE.
LOUIS VUITTON FW23 BY NICOLAS GHESQUIÈRE.

“What is French style? It’s an ambitious question, but being at Vuitton you have a certain responsibility because the name of the brand is so strong in the world.”

– Nicholas Ghesquière

The French allure here becomes a trompe l’oeil. Structured dresses, long coats and voluminous jackets appear on the catwalk with which overlapping games are created. There are bustier dresses worn over large wool sweaters, literally deconstructed dresses with collars and cuffs applied as details, mini dresses with wheeled volume, inspired by the crinolines of the 19th century, as well as white ruffs that become key accessories, alternating with long scarves that skim the ground. The men’s wardrobe returns as an element of inspiration for some of the proposals presented, vests and tailoring suits composed of oversize blazers with patch pockets and cigarette pants with cut-outs at the knees. The materials used are varied: leather elements, side by side with knit or padded pieces, soft furs and technical fabrics. The bags oxymoronically retrace every aspect of the brand’s history, there is the classic monogram on cowhide leather, side by side with modern shaped bags in padded fabrics, classic shades of browns are interspersed with vibrant color touches. Traditional elements meet with clear innovative and futuristic references, the sci-fi and almost surreal glasses being a clear example. The entire collection is a true representation of real life, of the moments of transition that everyone faces. The obsession with the French-girl style is transformed into a kaleidoscopic explosion of shapes and colors, in an abstract but at the same time coherent and solid vision.

LOUIS VUITTON FW23 BY NICOLAS GHESQUIÈRE.

Louis Vuitton’s heritage is unique; the Maison is a vessel that sails through time, guided by the winds of savoir-faire, technical research, discovery, and artistic ideals, and just like the French touch, it never ceases to amaze, surprise, and fascinate. The sound setting based on almost deafening and dazing acoustic illusions along with the refined opulence of the Musée d’Orsay‘s spaces represent the same contrast found within the collection by thickening the stylistic mystery of French fashion history.

MUSÉE D'ORSAY, SCENOGRAPHY BY PHILIPPE PARRENO AND JAMES CHINLUND.

“Every season we try to answer that question, but without saying it. This season the difference is we own it. But French style belongs to everyone.”

– Nicholas Ghesquière

LOUIS VUITTON FW23 BY NICOLAS GHESQUIÈRE.
THE GIVENCHY CODE

2024.03.01

From tailored suits to evening gowns, each piece is enriched with details that evoke the heritage of the Maison. A cinematic chromatic symphony, ranging from black to navy blue, lends the collection the typical Givenchy boldness, while graphic necklines and sartorial formality sculpt a distinctive silhouette.

POWER IS OUTSPOKEN

2024.02.28

An elegant sense of power pervades the latest Saint Laurent runway. There’s a duality that merges elegance and provocation, a carnal convergence between garment and body. Revisiting Yves’s codes, blouses, shirts, ultra-tight skirts, and silk dresses culminate in a powerful aesthetic imagery.

FW24

Creative freedom

2024.02.28

A collection that rethinks the concept of fashion as a manifestation of power and full representation of creativity, investigating the historical legacy and future of femininity. The looks in Dior’s FW24 collection convey the radiant power of a pluralistic, autonomous and versatile femininity, reactivating that key moment of creative freedom of which Miss Dior is the emblem.

FALL/WINTER 24

Impalpable Visions

2024.02.26

Armani opts for a palette of jewel tones and a novel emphasis on black. The attention to embroidered details marries simple elegance, while a message of poetry and hope shines through the outlines of winter flowers.

Jil Sander

Minimal frills, maximum impact

2024.02.25

The FW24 collection by Jil Sander is abundant in rounded silhouettes and soft lines, yet with character. The balance between form and comfort fills the enveloping coats and sartorial details: each piece reflects a constant pursuit of effortless sophistication.