MANIFESTO

#61

ART NOW

WHAT IS FRENCH STYLE

2023.03.07

Text by Lucrezia Sgualdino

A REFINED AND PARADOXICAL ENIGMA

 

An open book that chronicles Nicholas Ghesquière’s Fall Winter 23 collection at Louis Vuitton and asks the characteristics of French style. A question that remains unanswered, an evolving fashion with infinite fascination.

French fashion is a very present fantasy rooted in the past, it is influenced by different cultures and gathers different visions. It is a mixture of expressions and opportunities, and it is these characteristics that make it unique, special and recognizable in the world. The inspiration from which the Creative Director’s research starts is never a single idea or a single concept, but rather a set of images that allow to let one’s own person and extraordinary creative mind express themselves to the fullest. Ghesquière’s is a continuous search, dictated by great determination and a strong personality, in which characteristic elements of his person and core values of the brand are blended: tenacity and curiosity on the one hand and attention to the journey on the other. The present characterizes each study underlying the défilé presented for the coming season, elements linked to a unique heritage return to the stage presenting an evolving fashion with infinite fascination, a collection of details and stories from all over the world. The French exception therefore gathers a surprising mixture of cultures.

LOUIS VUITTON FW23 BY NICOLAS GHESQUIÈRE.
LOUIS VUITTON FW23 BY NICOLAS GHESQUIÈRE.

“What is French style? It’s an ambitious question, but being at Vuitton you have a certain responsibility because the name of the brand is so strong in the world.”

– Nicholas Ghesquière

The French allure here becomes a trompe l’oeil. Structured dresses, long coats and voluminous jackets appear on the catwalk with which overlapping games are created. There are bustier dresses worn over large wool sweaters, literally deconstructed dresses with collars and cuffs applied as details, mini dresses with wheeled volume, inspired by the crinolines of the 19th century, as well as white ruffs that become key accessories, alternating with long scarves that skim the ground. The men’s wardrobe returns as an element of inspiration for some of the proposals presented, vests and tailoring suits composed of oversize blazers with patch pockets and cigarette pants with cut-outs at the knees. The materials used are varied: leather elements, side by side with knit or padded pieces, soft furs and technical fabrics. The bags oxymoronically retrace every aspect of the brand’s history, there is the classic monogram on cowhide leather, side by side with modern shaped bags in padded fabrics, classic shades of browns are interspersed with vibrant color touches. Traditional elements meet with clear innovative and futuristic references, the sci-fi and almost surreal glasses being a clear example. The entire collection is a true representation of real life, of the moments of transition that everyone faces. The obsession with the French-girl style is transformed into a kaleidoscopic explosion of shapes and colors, in an abstract but at the same time coherent and solid vision.

LOUIS VUITTON FW23 BY NICOLAS GHESQUIÈRE.

Louis Vuitton’s heritage is unique; the Maison is a vessel that sails through time, guided by the winds of savoir-faire, technical research, discovery, and artistic ideals, and just like the French touch, it never ceases to amaze, surprise, and fascinate. The sound setting based on almost deafening and dazing acoustic illusions along with the refined opulence of the Musée d’Orsay‘s spaces represent the same contrast found within the collection by thickening the stylistic mystery of French fashion history.

MUSÉE D'ORSAY, SCENOGRAPHY BY PHILIPPE PARRENO AND JAMES CHINLUND.

“Every season we try to answer that question, but without saying it. This season the difference is we own it. But French style belongs to everyone.”

– Nicholas Ghesquière

LOUIS VUITTON FW23 BY NICOLAS GHESQUIÈRE.

LOUIS VUITTON

GHESQUIÈRE OCTOBER 2014

2023.09.20

The GO-14 bag, an acronym for Ghesquière October 2014, originated as one of the first creations to mark the designer’s debut at the head of the Louis Vuitton Maison.

BRITISH OUTDOORS

2023.09.19

A classic tale treated with irreverence by the creative inspiration of Daniel Lee, Burberry Summer 24 collection tells all the elements of the brand’s tradition through a fresh, modern lens.

NEWS

On Foot

2023.09.19

The exhibition On Foot, curated by Jonathan Anderson at Offer Waterman Gallery, will bring contemporary artists in dialogue with works of modern British Art and some interventions conceived by the designer himself.

EXHIBITION

MODE ET SPORT. D'UN PODIUM À L'AUTRE

2023.09.18

Ahead of the 2024 Olympics, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris presents Mode et Sport: from September 20th 2023 will be possible to discover the fascinating interconnections between fashion and sport from the ancient world to the present day.

FALL WINTER 23

EYE TO EYE

2023.09.15

The best of the season sees eye to eye muses Cami and Celeste, portrayed by Jeff Henrikson and styled by John Colver.