It is the Cour d’Honneur of the Palais des Papes in Avignon that provides the evocative setting for Louis Vuitton’s new Cruise 2026 collection. Designer Nicolas Ghesquière takes us back to a personal journey he made in 2000 through the south of France. It was there that he discovered the magnificence of this palace, surrounded by imposing stone ramparts—the largest medieval structure in all of Europe.
This setting represents, for Ghesquière, a true collision of time: the grand Gothic architecture enters into a dialogue—and a contrast—with the aesthetic impact of fashion, presented not just as spectacle but as a true form of art. Within Louis Vuitton’s heritage, a focus on the arts has always played a significant role. With this collection, Ghesquière explores the performative aspect of clothing, with its artistic value, narrative power, and emotional resonance.
“Personally, it’s tied to a memory that had a major impact on me. A series of exhibitions and performances called La Beauté in fabula was staged in the run up to the Festival d’Avignon.” says Nicolas Ghesquière.
“I spent two days completely immersed in the incredible rooms at the Palais, where for the first time I discovered Bill Viola’s work, which greatly left an impression and influenced me. There were also Christian Boltanski, Pierre et Gilles, Pina Bausch, [and] performances by Björk. It was a truly incredible experience for me.”
The show features more than forty looks, drawing inspiration from ancient religious iconography, borrowing details from the rock scene of the 1970s as well as from the historical temporality of ladies and knights. References to medieval myths and customs abound, with wide trapeze-shaped dresses that evoke metal armor. Modern grunge merges with French bohemian aesthetics, with structured shoulders and lace cuffs, tall studded leather boots and flowing chiffon blouses. Knitwear alternates with fluid dresses, fan-pleated skirts are shortened. Layering enhances sharply defined silhouettes and precise cuts. Colours and prints are bold and striking, as are the semi-rigid materials used—leathers, suedes, metallic finishes, all embellished with sequins or glossy detailing and inlays.
Such a culturally rich location, emblematic of different eras of artistic expression, proved to be the perfect backdrop for the theatrical piece Ghesquière intended to stage. The artistic expression of the wardrobe invites reflection on its own charisma, on the unspoken language behind the pairing of garments, and on the story evoked by each color, material, and combination. Dressing is part of both daily life and special occasions—it evokes emotions, transforms a person’s appearance and character, and simultaneously plays an essential, supportive role in each individual’s life.
