MANIFESTO

#61

ART NOW

FLOWERS AND VASES

2022.06.24

The Homme Plissé Issey Miyake SS23 collection is inspired by flowers and vases, contrasting delicacy and robustness in a proposal that is both strong and delicate.

The show is the brainchild of Rachid Ouramdane, director of the Théâtre National de Chaillot, who has involved models, performers and part of the acrobatic collective Compagnie XY, giving shape to an evocative performance of the combination narrated in the collection by the creative team; a set of dynamic and controlled characters. A show dedicated to demonstrating the recognisable freedom of movement through the use of fluid and light fabrics.

“The collection looks at the contrast between the flower and the vase – something that is really delicate and something that is robust, and how to compare and contrast them.”

– Issey Miyake

The collection is characterised by straight and curved pleats, suggested in the iconic pleated fabric. This time there is an addition of twists in the silhouettes and layering of different materials and colours. The garments, of course, suggest a feeling of lightness, creating accordion-like movements following the lines of the wearer’s body. The different series presented include tops and jackets with exaggerated angles along the chest and subtle details defined in the curves; light jackets inspired by plants swaying gently in the air, with pleats from sleeve to sleeve reminiscent of leaf veins; duster coats that can be transformed when needed, gathered at the waist by a drawstring, and with the lower part that can be folded down to become a short version, and the zip on the hood that allows you to create a collar with the most varied shapes; finally, trousers with diagonal pleat and buttons on the bottom that when unfastened give a wider line. Formal wear, on the other hand, is reworked in a dense turn, in shades of grey and black, with structured jackets with defined shoulders and trousers reminiscent of the tapered features of a lily. The details are relevant, from the pockets applied to the garments that can close upside down like a blossoming bud, to the prints inspired by the cotton plant, obtained from random drops of paint in different colour variants such as white, yellow and purple. Among the accessories, the low shoe in pink and beige, with contrasting dark rubber on the toe, adds character to the muted palette. The atmosphere of the show envelops the audience gently, in complete harmony and balance with the show. The organic and functional touch is transposed in the artful realisation of each garment and, as often happens, in the reference to nature and malleability.

RIVE DROITE

SAINT LAURENT BY
VANESSA BEECROFT

2023.02.15

Saint Laurent invites Vanessa Beecroft to photograph the Spring 23 collection: a selection of 14 polaroids is on display at Rive Droite stores in Paris and Los Angeles. 

COLLECTION

Gucci Après-Ski

2022.12.15

The Maison presents the new Gucci Après-Ski collection, a selection of garments designed for a luxurious and refined high-altitude season told through a retro campaign inspired by the relaxed atmosphere of winter holidays.

JACQUEMUS

"LE RAPHIA"

2022.12.13

Under a relentless rain of raffia, that breaks in like a summer storm, Jacquemus presents its new Spring Summer 2023 collection, titled “Le Raphia”. The natural fiber becomes the undisputed star moving from its raw essence to being extremely luxurious.

CELINE

Age of Indieness

2022.12.12

Age of Indieness spotlights an aesthetic raised from the indie-sleaze era of the 1990s and early 2000s, Celine’s Winter 2023 collection, designed by Hedi Slimane, walk the catwalk at the Wiltern Theatre in the heart of Los Angeles.

Fashion

Chanel
Métiers d’Art

2022.12.09

The Chanel Métiers d’Art 2022/23 collection, presented under the artistic direction of Virginie Viard, parades at the Palais de Justice in Dakar, capital of Senegal. The show is unique in terms of creativity, and a tribute to the savoir-faire of the place.