The show is the brainchild of Rachid Ouramdane, director of the Théâtre National de Chaillot, who has involved models, performers and part of the acrobatic collective Compagnie XY, giving shape to an evocative performance of the combination narrated in the collection by the creative team; a set of dynamic and controlled characters. A show dedicated to demonstrating the recognisable freedom of movement through the use of fluid and light fabrics.
“The collection looks at the contrast between the flower and the vase – something that is really delicate and something that is robust, and how to compare and contrast them.”
The collection is characterised by straight and curved pleats, suggested in the iconic pleated fabric. This time there is an addition of twists in the silhouettes and layering of different materials and colours. The garments, of course, suggest a feeling of lightness, creating accordion-like movements following the lines of the wearer’s body. The different series presented include tops and jackets with exaggerated angles along the chest and subtle details defined in the curves; light jackets inspired by plants swaying gently in the air, with pleats from sleeve to sleeve reminiscent of leaf veins; duster coats that can be transformed when needed, gathered at the waist by a drawstring, and with the lower part that can be folded down to become a short version, and the zip on the hood that allows you to create a collar with the most varied shapes; finally, trousers with diagonal pleat and buttons on the bottom that when unfastened give a wider line. Formal wear, on the other hand, is reworked in a dense turn, in shades of grey and black, with structured jackets with defined shoulders and trousers reminiscent of the tapered features of a lily. The details are relevant, from the pockets applied to the garments that can close upside down like a blossoming bud, to the prints inspired by the cotton plant, obtained from random drops of paint in different colour variants such as white, yellow and purple. Among the accessories, the low shoe in pink and beige, with contrasting dark rubber on the toe, adds character to the muted palette. The atmosphere of the show envelops the audience gently, in complete harmony and balance with the show. The organic and functional touch is transposed in the artful realisation of each garment and, as often happens, in the reference to nature and malleability.