MANIFESTO

#61

ART NOW

FLOWERS AND VASES

2022.06.24

The Homme Plissé Issey Miyake SS23 collection is inspired by flowers and vases, contrasting delicacy and robustness in a proposal that is both strong and delicate.

The show is the brainchild of Rachid Ouramdane, director of the Théâtre National de Chaillot, who has involved models, performers and part of the acrobatic collective Compagnie XY, giving shape to an evocative performance of the combination narrated in the collection by the creative team; a set of dynamic and controlled characters. A show dedicated to demonstrating the recognisable freedom of movement through the use of fluid and light fabrics.

“The collection looks at the contrast between the flower and the vase – something that is really delicate and something that is robust, and how to compare and contrast them.”

– Issey Miyake

The collection is characterised by straight and curved pleats, suggested in the iconic pleated fabric. This time there is an addition of twists in the silhouettes and layering of different materials and colours. The garments, of course, suggest a feeling of lightness, creating accordion-like movements following the lines of the wearer’s body. The different series presented include tops and jackets with exaggerated angles along the chest and subtle details defined in the curves; light jackets inspired by plants swaying gently in the air, with pleats from sleeve to sleeve reminiscent of leaf veins; duster coats that can be transformed when needed, gathered at the waist by a drawstring, and with the lower part that can be folded down to become a short version, and the zip on the hood that allows you to create a collar with the most varied shapes; finally, trousers with diagonal pleat and buttons on the bottom that when unfastened give a wider line. Formal wear, on the other hand, is reworked in a dense turn, in shades of grey and black, with structured jackets with defined shoulders and trousers reminiscent of the tapered features of a lily. The details are relevant, from the pockets applied to the garments that can close upside down like a blossoming bud, to the prints inspired by the cotton plant, obtained from random drops of paint in different colour variants such as white, yellow and purple. Among the accessories, the low shoe in pink and beige, with contrasting dark rubber on the toe, adds character to the muted palette. The atmosphere of the show envelops the audience gently, in complete harmony and balance with the show. The organic and functional touch is transposed in the artful realisation of each garment and, as often happens, in the reference to nature and malleability.

LOUIS VUITTON

GHESQUIÈRE OCTOBER 2014

2023.09.20

The GO-14 bag, an acronym for Ghesquière October 2014, originated as one of the first creations to mark the designer’s debut at the head of the Louis Vuitton Maison.

NEWS

On Foot

2023.09.19

The exhibition On Foot, curated by Jonathan Anderson at Offer Waterman Gallery, will bring contemporary artists in dialogue with works of modern British Art and some interventions conceived by the designer himself.

EXHIBITION

MODE ET SPORT. D'UN PODIUM À L'AUTRE

2023.09.18

Ahead of the 2024 Olympics, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris presents Mode et Sport: from September 20th 2023 will be possible to discover the fascinating interconnections between fashion and sport from the ancient world to the present day.

V&A Museaum

FASHION MANIFESTO

2023.09.15

The first exhibition in the UK dedicated to the visionary couturier Gabrielle Coco Chanel – Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto will open on September 16th 2023 at the Victoria & Albert Museum.

JEWELLERY

A BAG BECOMES JEWELLERY

2023.09.14

From September 13th, the Kelly by Hermès will be the star of an exhibition in the Milan boutique of Via Montenapoleone, where the Kellymorphose retrospective will be staged, boldly and surprisingly reinterpreting the brand’s iconic accessory in the world of jewellery.