MANIFESTO

#65

MUSE TWENTY FANZINE

FLOWERS AND VASES

2022.06.24

The Homme Plissé Issey Miyake SS23 collection is inspired by flowers and vases, contrasting delicacy and robustness in a proposal that is both strong and delicate.

The show is the brainchild of Rachid Ouramdane, director of the Théâtre National de Chaillot, who has involved models, performers and part of the acrobatic collective Compagnie XY, giving shape to an evocative performance of the combination narrated in the collection by the creative team; a set of dynamic and controlled characters. A show dedicated to demonstrating the recognisable freedom of movement through the use of fluid and light fabrics.

“The collection looks at the contrast between the flower and the vase – something that is really delicate and something that is robust, and how to compare and contrast them.”

– Issey Miyake

The collection is characterised by straight and curved pleats, suggested in the iconic pleated fabric. This time there is an addition of twists in the silhouettes and layering of different materials and colours. The garments, of course, suggest a feeling of lightness, creating accordion-like movements following the lines of the wearer’s body. The different series presented include tops and jackets with exaggerated angles along the chest and subtle details defined in the curves; light jackets inspired by plants swaying gently in the air, with pleats from sleeve to sleeve reminiscent of leaf veins; duster coats that can be transformed when needed, gathered at the waist by a drawstring, and with the lower part that can be folded down to become a short version, and the zip on the hood that allows you to create a collar with the most varied shapes; finally, trousers with diagonal pleat and buttons on the bottom that when unfastened give a wider line. Formal wear, on the other hand, is reworked in a dense turn, in shades of grey and black, with structured jackets with defined shoulders and trousers reminiscent of the tapered features of a lily. The details are relevant, from the pockets applied to the garments that can close upside down like a blossoming bud, to the prints inspired by the cotton plant, obtained from random drops of paint in different colour variants such as white, yellow and purple. Among the accessories, the low shoe in pink and beige, with contrasting dark rubber on the toe, adds character to the muted palette. The atmosphere of the show envelops the audience gently, in complete harmony and balance with the show. The organic and functional touch is transposed in the artful realisation of each garment and, as often happens, in the reference to nature and malleability.

Dior Cruise

A BEAUTIFUL CONFUSION

2025.05.29

Maria Grazia Chiuri chooses her Rome as the setting for the Dior Cruise 2026. The city’s most hidden places bring to life the narrative of a collection that weaves together diverse characters and personalities.

LOUIS VUITTON

A THEATRICAL PLAY

2025.05.23

Louis Vuitton Cruise 2026 at the Palais des Papes in Avignon

 

Nicolas Ghesquière stages a new journey for the Maison, set against a backdrop beautifully defined by history and art, tradition and modernity—where clothing discovers its intrinsic performative nature.

DIOR FALL 2025

The space we inhabit

2025.04.16

Under a canopy of cherry blossom in Kyoto, Dior showed its Fall 2025 collection at the storied Tō-ji Temple, and it was a poetic interplay of heritage and craftsmanship.

LORO PIANA

A NEW CHAPTER

2025.03.14

Luxury, style, and performance: Loro Piana debuts its Spring/Summer 2025 eyewear collection.

NEWS

ALAÏA BY SEKLAOUI

2025.02.19

Maison Alaïa presents its fourth Dialogue, Alaïa by Seklaoui, an exclusive vision of the world behind the creative process of one of the most coveted fashion houses in the world.