The narrative is free of superfluous details, devoid of unnecessary embellishments, telling a story that is crystal clear in the mind of Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello. A pursuit aimed at paying homage to the Saint Laurent ideal. A pure fashion, told for what it truly is. Precise and meticulous construction shapes the garments and silhouettes, creating an atmosphere that is both classic and rebellious at the same time. The natural contours of the female body are flawlessly followed, thanks to the creative mastery of tailoring. Vaccarello brings his full artistic sensibility into play to bring to life and shape an emotional story of sensational construction. The clothing speaks for itself; it needs no introduction or explanation—each piece already conveys everything there is to tell and reveal. Nothing is shouted, nothing is excessive. The creativity of a brilliant mind has the power to rekindle deep emotions linked to history, beauty, love, and desire. This primordial vision is also reflected in the careful exploration of colour, which takes on a primary role in its most understated shades. Even in this aspect, the return to essence is evident, in the true purity of the garment—one that must be able to narrate the journey of a confident woman.
“I wanted something clean, with no ornamentation, no decoration, no… nothing.”
The concept of the silhouette begins with the study of shoulder volume, with the shape tapering down along the body towards the length, forming an inverted triangle. High collars elongate the figures, just like leather belts fastened around the hips. The shapes are strong and bold. Glossy tops alternate with semi-transparent leopard and floral prints, while classic pencil skirts fall just below the knee. Bombers and mini dresses feature broad shoulders, while dresses take on cocoon-like forms that envelop the body. Blouses are adorned with oversized bows at the back. Evening-wear is presented in a highly theatrical section: voluminous ball skirts are paired with simple silk and lace tank tops—an intimate nod to lingerie—or with aviator leather jackets borrowed from the men’s wardrobe. The only accessories present are oversized sunglasses that wrap around the eyes and temples, adding a sense of mystery and fantasy. Leather gloves are abundant in fabric and come in dark hues. Earrings remain oversized, along with chokers adorning round necklines—sensual and feminine light points crafted from rock crystal. Pointed shoes create the only contrast: a square satin rose is delicately applied to the tip.
“I really liked this idea of elasticity, of movement—all to give a sense of freedom. There’s really no structure; the volumes come from the shape of the clothes and the fabrics—and everything is light.”
The collection carries an otherworldly aura, a sensation of impenetrable and unwavering fashion. A depth that emerges through a play of proportions. The inspiration had already been revealed to us through a video of Amalia Vairelli, muse of Monsieur Yves Saint Laurent, who, when asked What is Saint Laurent?, simply answered, C’est l’amour.
And it is precisely the love for the history of the Maison that makes all of Vaccarello’s work possible—a gesture of devotion to those who are passionate about fashion, to those who observe it, admire it, and dream of it. But also a love for the concreteness of a story that becomes vivid, for the codes of a heritage that cannot be replaced, for the beauty and harmony found in human complexity, and for the balance between discipline and innovation.
