Louis Vuitton returns to tell a clear, determined, and recognisable vision. Everything in the mind of Creative Director Nicolas Ghesquière is so immediate—the homage to the brand’s tradition remains the central pillar from which each collection unfolds. The essence of innovation and change is palpable in every piece presented on the runway, as the evolution of the brand’s codes is intertwined with the passage of time and the dawn of a new century, bringing with it new thoughts and emotions. Trends blend and merge in a carefully orchestrated play, in unparalleled artisanal mastery, in fashion that becomes a continuous dialogue between different styles. And thus, a new revolution is born. The world created for the show is rich with emotion. L’Étoile du Nord is an imaginary station with an asymmetrical structure, carrying with it the nostalgia of 19th-century train journeys. The story told is one of travel—a theme so dear to Monsieur Louis Vuitton—along with all the hidden meanings behind this word: adventure, discovery, enchantment, surprise. All emotions converge: anticipation, hope, melancholy, excitement, comfort, confusion, euphoria. Travel serves multiple purposes: love and separation, departure and return.
“I started with the idea of something very collective, which is the platform of a station, where people meet, where people separate, where people are happy to be together again, where people are sad to leave each other. People you see just for once in your life with a certain look that you might never forget, that might influence you, which is, I think, my case somehow.”
The show opens with coral-coloured trousers with a soft cut, printed shirts, and semi-transparent beige and black trench coats. It then transitions to sporty windbreakers emblazoned with the Louis Vuitton logo and both long and short leather jackets adorned with soft feathered trims. Capes, scarves, and checkered mini dresses capture the essence of everyday life. Dresses range from short to long, structured to fluid, crafted in silk or bold prints. Layered ruffled skirts add a girly-chic touch, while high-waisted silhouettes elongate the figure. Ghesquière’s signature play on volumes is ever-present, appearing in jackets, capes, high-neck pullovers, and mini dresses. The colours are vibrant, and the palette is vast and varied, reflecting an ongoing exploration of fashion’s many dimensions. The silhouettes are meticulously crafted, with each look featuring a unique detail—short and slim cuts alternate with soft, oversized volumes, while padded jackets share the spotlight with elegant capes that wrap around the body.
As always, accessories play an essential role in the narrative. The classic monogram appears on double belt bags worn at the waist, while shapes range from mini to maxi. The timeless Keepall bag introduces the new Express, featuring lighter lines. Among the footwear, chunky soles with contrasting details stand out on sneakers and boots with nearly imperceptible heels. Some boots come in knit fabric with soft gathered folds, while others wrap around the ankle, adorned with simple leather tassels.
For this collection, Louis Vuitton also collaborated with the German electronic music group Kraftwerk, a key player in the contemporary music scene. The iconic album Trans-Europe Express lent its cover to several looks featured in the show, as well as its title as inspiration for the entire collection—interpreted not in a literal way, but through unique and meticulously crafted details.
In conclusion, Nicolas Ghesquière once again seems to have enjoyed creating a narrative that pays homage to the past, present, and future, in a collection that remains accessible despite bold and unexpected combinations. The entire show was designed to tell a shared story, one in which everyone participates equally and is equally involved. The power of collectivity and unity reaffirms just how deeply the Creative Director is connected to the world around him—to the passage of time, the evolution of fashion, and a world that crumbles and rebuilds itself in a fusion of beauty that leaves us breathless and brings tears to our eyes.
