MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

Hollywood Stars

2023.01.04

Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent’s new Spring 23 campaign focuses on the film industry, starring four of the world’s most famous directors.

Abel Ferrara is an American director and screenwriter known for a racy aesthetic connected to his cultural substratum, the New York underworld, which he uses to tell the story of each man’s desire for redemption. Dark and violent cities where troubled characters roam are the common thread in the American director’s films. Jim Jarmuschs cinema is instead characterized by static shots and long planes that appear like photographs in which he wants to represent the stillness that pervades the atmospheres and the characters of his creative approach; for the French Maison’s campaign Jarmusch wields a safety pin and looking through dark glasses straight into the camera lens engraves some writing on the surface of the desk. Pedro Almodovar is another iconic name among the protagonists, who develops plots mainly based on passions, increasingly sophisticated and enriched with sensationalist and provocative elements. The Spanish director for Anthony Vaccarello’s new project stares at the camera with an attitude of power. Last but not least, David Cronenberg with his gaze seems to defy the camera, which portrays him as serious and unflappable; Canadian director is considered a pioneer of the film genre referred to as body horror, which explores man’s terror in the face of body mutation, interweaving the psychological element with the physical. The protagonists faces chosen by Saint Laurent are portrayed in the photo and video campaign by David Sims in black and white, dressed in total black with double-breasted jackets, like the one worn by Jarmusch, alternating with voluminous furs, as the one worn by Almodovar, paired with dark sunglasses, a key accessory of the brand. The Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello picks up on the cinematic atmosphere that also characterized the SS23 fashion show in Marrakech, thus creating a campaign that combines cinema and fashion by recalling four characters who have marked the history of cinematography.

David Cronenberg by David Sims. Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello.
Abel Ferrara by David Sims. Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello.
Pedro Almodóvar by David Sims. Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello.
THE GIVENCHY CODE

2024.03.01

From tailored suits to evening gowns, each piece is enriched with details that evoke the heritage of the Maison. A cinematic chromatic symphony, ranging from black to navy blue, lends the collection the typical Givenchy boldness, while graphic necklines and sartorial formality sculpt a distinctive silhouette.

POWER IS OUTSPOKEN

2024.02.28

An elegant sense of power pervades the latest Saint Laurent runway. There’s a duality that merges elegance and provocation, a carnal convergence between garment and body. Revisiting Yves’s codes, blouses, shirts, ultra-tight skirts, and silk dresses culminate in a powerful aesthetic imagery.

FW24

Creative freedom

2024.02.28

A collection that rethinks the concept of fashion as a manifestation of power and full representation of creativity, investigating the historical legacy and future of femininity. The looks in Dior’s FW24 collection convey the radiant power of a pluralistic, autonomous and versatile femininity, reactivating that key moment of creative freedom of which Miss Dior is the emblem.

FALL/WINTER 24

Impalpable Visions

2024.02.26

Armani opts for a palette of jewel tones and a novel emphasis on black. The attention to embroidered details marries simple elegance, while a message of poetry and hope shines through the outlines of winter flowers.

Jil Sander

Minimal frills, maximum impact

2024.02.25

The FW24 collection by Jil Sander is abundant in rounded silhouettes and soft lines, yet with character. The balance between form and comfort fills the enveloping coats and sartorial details: each piece reflects a constant pursuit of effortless sophistication.