MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

Hollywood Stars

2023.01.04

Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent’s new Spring 23 campaign focuses on the film industry, starring four of the world’s most famous directors.

Abel Ferrara is an American director and screenwriter known for a racy aesthetic connected to his cultural substratum, the New York underworld, which he uses to tell the story of each man’s desire for redemption. Dark and violent cities where troubled characters roam are the common thread in the American director’s films. Jim Jarmuschs cinema is instead characterized by static shots and long planes that appear like photographs in which he wants to represent the stillness that pervades the atmospheres and the characters of his creative approach; for the French Maison’s campaign Jarmusch wields a safety pin and looking through dark glasses straight into the camera lens engraves some writing on the surface of the desk. Pedro Almodovar is another iconic name among the protagonists, who develops plots mainly based on passions, increasingly sophisticated and enriched with sensationalist and provocative elements. The Spanish director for Anthony Vaccarello’s new project stares at the camera with an attitude of power. Last but not least, David Cronenberg with his gaze seems to defy the camera, which portrays him as serious and unflappable; Canadian director is considered a pioneer of the film genre referred to as body horror, which explores man’s terror in the face of body mutation, interweaving the psychological element with the physical. The protagonists faces chosen by Saint Laurent are portrayed in the photo and video campaign by David Sims in black and white, dressed in total black with double-breasted jackets, like the one worn by Jarmusch, alternating with voluminous furs, as the one worn by Almodovar, paired with dark sunglasses, a key accessory of the brand. The Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello picks up on the cinematic atmosphere that also characterized the SS23 fashion show in Marrakech, thus creating a campaign that combines cinema and fashion by recalling four characters who have marked the history of cinematography.

David Cronenberg by David Sims. Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello.
Abel Ferrara by David Sims. Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello.
Pedro Almodóvar by David Sims. Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello.
Chanel Overture

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Presented in Paris, the Haute Couture FW 2024/25 fashion show pays homage to the Opéra Garnier. The collection, sophisticated and theatrical, plays with opulent materials such as feathers, velvet, and taffeta, modernizing a scenic tradition.

HAUTE COUTURE

Dior's Olympian Couture

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Among the spaces of the Musée Rodin in Paris, the audience witnesses a parade of peplos and drapery in the name of Dior. A reference not only visual but also conceptual to classical statuary.

DIOR

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Follow the live stream of the #DiorHauteCoutureFW24 show.

SS25

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COLLECTION

ARCHIVAL RENAISSANCE

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Kim Jones’s new collection is a captivating ode to savoir-faire. Rounded volumes, sculptural knitwear, and playful accessories redefine menswear.