MANIFESTO

#64

MUSE TWENTY FANZINE

Hollywood Stars

2023.01.04

Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent’s new Spring 23 campaign focuses on the film industry, starring four of the world’s most famous directors.

Abel Ferrara is an American director and screenwriter known for a racy aesthetic connected to his cultural substratum, the New York underworld, which he uses to tell the story of each man’s desire for redemption. Dark and violent cities where troubled characters roam are the common thread in the American director’s films. Jim Jarmuschs cinema is instead characterized by static shots and long planes that appear like photographs in which he wants to represent the stillness that pervades the atmospheres and the characters of his creative approach; for the French Maison’s campaign Jarmusch wields a safety pin and looking through dark glasses straight into the camera lens engraves some writing on the surface of the desk. Pedro Almodovar is another iconic name among the protagonists, who develops plots mainly based on passions, increasingly sophisticated and enriched with sensationalist and provocative elements. The Spanish director for Anthony Vaccarello’s new project stares at the camera with an attitude of power. Last but not least, David Cronenberg with his gaze seems to defy the camera, which portrays him as serious and unflappable; Canadian director is considered a pioneer of the film genre referred to as body horror, which explores man’s terror in the face of body mutation, interweaving the psychological element with the physical. The protagonists faces chosen by Saint Laurent are portrayed in the photo and video campaign by David Sims in black and white, dressed in total black with double-breasted jackets, like the one worn by Jarmusch, alternating with voluminous furs, as the one worn by Almodovar, paired with dark sunglasses, a key accessory of the brand. The Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello picks up on the cinematic atmosphere that also characterized the SS23 fashion show in Marrakech, thus creating a campaign that combines cinema and fashion by recalling four characters who have marked the history of cinematography.

David Cronenberg by David Sims. Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello.
Abel Ferrara by David Sims. Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello.
Pedro Almodóvar by David Sims. Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello.

A FASCINATING OXYMORON

2024.10.02

Nicolas Ghesquière pays tribute to Maison Louis Vuitton’s long tradition of craftsmanship by showcasing resolute femininity. The delicacy of the Spring-Summer 2025 collection walks on the important foundations of the brand.

SALT LOOKS LIKE SUGAR

2024.10.02

The Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2025 collection designed by Miuccia Prada is a starting point that brings together the ideas of past and future. It is a tale in which the present seems to be too narrow, a collection of spontaneous gestures that radically alter classic garments.

CHANEL

AN EVER-CHANGING VOYAGE

2024.10.01

Maison Chanel’s Creation Studio now presents a story linked to the concept of freedom, a tale of a journey that takes flight, soaring through the clear skies of Paris, and comes to rest on the glass of the Grand Palais.

SS 2025

THE TACTILE AND SENSORIAL

2024.09.29

The atelier is the starting point for the new Hermès Spring/Summer 2025 collection. The Maison’s heritage is intertwined between leatherwork and the prospect of a future that changes in form and function, that allows itself to be traced by a light hand and loses itself in the lines of a design.

ISSEY MIYAKE

THE BEAUTY OF PAPER

2024.09.28

What is it about paper that makes us feel so comfortable? Issey Miyake’s Spring/Summer 2025 focuses on the history and craftsmanship of paper. An element around which all the experimentation of the next summer collection revolves. Nature becomes the medium for the story of a fashion that is pure and authentic, poetic and in part even primitive.