MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

timeless elegance

2023.01.31

The Saint Laurent Men Winter 2023 collection by Anthony Vaccarello shows a timeless elegance, where fluidity becomes a distinctive characteristic and the cleanliness of the garments remains as always the designer’s goal. 

The latest collection presented by Anthony Vaccarello in Paris dialogues with previous seasons, showing itself to the public as a sequel to them. A timeless elegance that distinguishes the brand also makes magical the Men of the next season, presented by the designer showing a certain confidence and conviction. The color palette shrinks, choosing only that tones fundamental for the Maison, including white, gray, brown and of course black, symbol of identity and of great class and sophistication. Vaccarello makes fluidity an hallmark of the coming season; in fact, the women’s wardrobe presented last September seems to dialogue perfectly with the men’s défilé, establishing an orderly balance and eliminating any distinction between the two worlds. 

Watching the models enter the runway, one immediately catches the long, narrow shape of the silhouettes: trench coats and leather coats with pointed shoulders brush against the floor along with loose, light pants that create gentle movement with every step. Dresses turn into narrow wool tunics with exaggerated turtlenecks that further slender the figure, alternating with light chiffon blouses with excessive bows that wrap around the neck or remain soft along the body. Vaccarello’s elegance is also evident in tailored tuxedo jackets and silk blouses with exposed chests and bands that wrap around the body at waist level. The lightweight materials used by the designer, including mohair, cashmere, satin, and velvet, create a strong contrast with the shapes of the clothes, sharp and square, and the character expressed by the models, who are confident, strong, and inscrutable. In fact, the fundamental accessory of the collection is the sunglasses, strictly black, with dark lenses that do not allow to meet the other’s gaze. Anthony Vaccarello for the collection does not include bags, but under the long pants the tip of a black shiny leather ankle boot can be glimpsed. 

Saint Laurent Men FW23 by Anthony Vaccarello.

“I really want them to be almost one person,” he said. “So women could be the men, and the men could be the women. No difference. I want more and more to put them at the same level. No distinction.”

 – Anthony Vaccarello 

Anthony Vaccarello chooses the round room of the Trade Exchange, created by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, starting of the concept the circle, a symbol of purity and perfection, contributing to the idea of refinement that the designer wants to convey to the audience. The latter, arranged in a circular fashion, watches the models parade around following the shape of the room to the rhythm of the notes played on the piano placed in the center of the room by Paul Prier and Charlotte Gainsbourg. With the collection, the designer manifests another time the balance that unites the men’s and women’s collections by affirming fluidity as the hallmark of the Maison, and demonstrates that clean lines are synonymous with extreme elegance and class.

Saint Laurent men fw23 by Anthony Vaccarello.

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