MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

TAKING CARE

2023.02.24

The Prada Fall Winter 23 collection by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons reconceptualizes and reconsiders the idea of beauty by transforming uniforms according to the language of evening dresses, becoming representations of care and responsibility. 

Prada with the FW23 collection is looking for beauty everywhere and in any form: Miuccia Prada before the start of the fashion show explains how she and Raf Simons chose to be inspired by uniforms that represent the beauty of caring, love and reality. Thus, it is not aesthetics that determine beauty, but actions: clothing takes on a new meaning and becomes an expression of these values that are fundamental today. The elevation of the uniform’s imagery places Prada’s collection in a much broader context where the garments carry a powerful message: the collection wants to celebrate the people who wear uniforms every day, exalting their gestures and their lives. White is presented as the protagonist, already anticipated with the invitation to the show: a box completely white, aseptic, with inside a flower-shaped brooch in white cotton cloth and a book with the cover of the same color entitled Recycling Beauty, the same name of the exhibition at Fondazione Prada spaces that reveals the power of beauty reused in different periods and for different purposes. The white skirt that opens the show appears to the audience’s eyes like a poem: an explosion of flowers and organza embroidery covers the pencil skirt, paired with a minimal gray sweater and pointed ballet flats. 

PRADA FW23.

“Mainly what I care about now is to give importance to what is modest, to value modest jobs, simple jobs, and not only extreme beauty or glamour.”

– Miuccia Prada

The first look anticipates the clean lines and severe but enveloping shapes of the entire collection. Wedding dresses, the quintessential symbol of love, become everyday garments: voluminous skirts full of tone-on-tone applications combined with oversized suede jackets show as an ultra-feminine and extremely elegant garment can be part of our everyday life by wearing it with character and simplicity. The collection is an evolution of the Men’s Fall Winter 23: tight, slender pants and 70s collars with highly elongated points return to the runway, which also in the case of Women’s are worn under square unbotton jackets, allowing a glimpse of the body with a hint of innate sensuality. Pastel colors return in the form of midi dresses that follow the shape of the silhouette, while white fabric reminiscent of a soft pillow is used in the creation of a new mini skirt. The protection of the body through clothing suggests a tender thoughtfulness, like a case: enveloping volumes reshape classic tailored outerwear taken once again from the men’s wardrobe, with padding that both shelters and warms. The fiery red hammered leather suit stands out during the show, proposing the face of the Italian Maison with the strongest and most aggressive character, while the total white chemisier dresses with a small train seem to be the perfect representation of the essence of the whole défilé. Pointed ballet flats echo the flowers applied on the skirts, used as a symbol of affection and an evocation of fashion craftsmanship. The bags are offered in soft pastel colors, contrasting with the square lines that resembles that of tough geometric shape.

prada fw23

“In the collection we also find the opposite garments reserved or created for a special occasion, such as wedding dresses, that become everyday garments. After all, why should one celebrate love for only one day.”

– Raf Simons

The concept of transformation also extends through the location set-up, the Deposito of Fondazione Prada, where a movable ceiling, echoing that of the Men’s show in January, redesigns the rooms, enlarging them and revealing floral decorations previously hidden by a low, industrial coverage, causing the audience to reconsider the space and the figures moving within it from a new point of view. Accompanying the subversion of space the initial techno music is interrupted and replaced with Strauss Waltz’s famous symphony “The Blue Danube” as the audience is captivated by the much beauty of garments that bring a sense of purity and elegance to the runway. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons proved once again that they are the masters of creating a clean and sophisticated wardrobe loaded with messages of strong meaning, emphasizing the importance of care and the celebration of uniforms that are fundamental to our daily lives.

Prada FW23, Deposito of Fondazione Prada

LIVE STREAMING

LOUIS VUITTON

2024.04.17

Nicolas Ghesquière will present his Louis Vuitton Women’s Pre-Fall 2024 Collection live from Shanghai on Thursday, April 18th at 7 pm CST.

VERSACE JEANS COUTURE

METROPOLITAN NOCTURNES

2024.04.15

Drawing inspiration from the evocative work of Philip-Lorca DiCorcia, Metropolitan Nocturnes – the new Versace Jeans Couture campaign – tells the intertwined lives of four distinct individuals. Each character navigates the interaction born from the energy of Miami and their own inner landscapes.

FASHION

HIGH&LOW

2024.03.13

Through a series of exclusive interviews, Kevin Macdonald sheds new light on the creative genius of John Galliano, from his prodigious student days at Central St. Martins in London to his tenure at Dior, culminating in the 2011 incident. A kaleidoscopic portrait of one of the greatest cultural icons of the 2000s.

COLLECTION

Exceptional Frenchness

2024.03.12

Hedi Slimane perfectly balances the refined with the casual. The tweed riding jackets reinvent the Celine codes, while romantic trenches lighten the spaces of Salle Pleyel.

SAINT LAURENT

MASCULINE GRACE

2024.03.06

Anthony Vaccarello revisits classic menswear with a contemporary twist. The suits are roomy, soft, detached from the body, often in lightweight and sheer fabrics, sometimes layered. Saint Laurent’s georgette and satin are enveloped in a shadowy color palette.