MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

A RATIONALE OF BEAUTIES

2023.10.04

Text by Lucrezia Sgualdino

MIU MIU SPRING SUMMER 2024 

 

Miuccia Prada reevaluates the concept of beauty, readjusting it to current times and retracing the complex characters of history. A Miu Miu collection that gives new points of view, redefined by an unmistakable aesthetic.

The Miu Miu Spring Summer 2024 collection rethinks a new definition of the concept of beauty, the plurality in producing it, the different and the messy. Miuccia Prada decides to unhinge the vision of uniqueness and break down the ideal of the ordinary. Indeed, beauty must be able to embrace different points of view, distant and global visions, unique complexities. Thus, the research is transmuted into a reflective definition of a fashion that reacts to modern life and contemporary feeling. Recollection and citation to the past is undoubtedly present in the narrative, styles and quotations emphasise the importance of past times, which regain charm and importance. Thus, there is no longer one and only one idea, but rather plural visions of different but unique, singular and interesting characters. This is a tale of a reversal of perspectives, of concrete clothes that tell the story of reality and everyday life, which again become not only scenic but also useful and wearable.

The Spring Summer 2024 Miu Miu collection by Miuccia Prada explores a rationale of beauty today – exploding, redressing. 

Garments originally designed for specific purposes are repurposed in a modern, and sometimes unexpected key: a swimsuit worn under a cocktail dress or under formal suits, a petticoat with a tailored blazer on top, or coats and jackets resting on the bare chest. The juxtapositions of styles, materials, colours, and inspirations tell a modern and visionary key, serving as a mirror of different realities with unique and infinite identities. Each look idea proposes a different vision of meaning, garments are combined in surprising ways to convey the idea of the presence of a plurality of beauty. Sportswear inspired by the world of swimming and the world of tennis is blended with tailoring, creating essential proposals placed in that fine line between formal and comfort. Swimsuits in technical fabrics, cotton tailoring and baggy polo shirts, leather jackets and skirts, suede jackets, elegant embroidered and brocade dresses. Waists are always low, accentuated by contrasting maxi belts for dark color and important material, skirt lengths alternate between ultra mini and knee-length, with pleats or ruffles.

miu miu x new balance.

The colours are also varied, the show opening with shades of blue, then moving on to beige and brown tones, grey, pastel shades, black and white essentials, and a gold smeared jewel effect. Accessories reopen the dialogue with previous seasons: New Balance 530, two-tone Church’s, and low thong sandals with leather laces. Glasses, on the other hand, lend an allure of geek chic or nerdy-chic to the whole défilé. Leather handbags are veritable carry-alls, overflowing with essentials for everyday life, there are proposals in smooth, hammered or curled leather; the shapes are either maxi and capacious or mini and essential.

Prototypical ideas of clothing hold significance. The notion of meaningful design is expressed through a connection with intention, with objective and benefit. 

Miu Miu has always carried on great conversations with artists of all kinds, with the will to tell an independent and free art-fashion union. The present is the key to the reflection, which this time features the Qatari-American artist Sophia Al-Maria. The show was set in a landscape of technological ruins, expanding into a story on the edge of the imaginary within the walls of the Palais d’Iéna and designed in collaboration with OMA. The title of the work is Gravity & Grace, and it represents a confrontation between reality and fantasy. The exploration is in the inherent meaning of the narrative, which, as with the garments presented, seeks to retrace a past or recent history to arrive at the modern era. The artist’s desire, in dialogue with the fashion staged between screens and linear installations, is to transmit the past, share the present and imagine the future.

 

The collection is sophisticated, yet current and concrete, real and suitable for everyday life. It is a collection of reversed perspectives, of different influences; the individual is important to his or her person and the fashion he or she wears, history and the past are used to unearth the profound interrelation to humanity. Fashion becomes a tool to relate to people, to understand their lives and experience. Just as storytelling and inspiration, clothes are also marked by the passage of time, an exaggeration of the passage of time expressive of the notion of prior use, of existing love.

LIVE STREAMING

LOUIS VUITTON

2024.04.17

Nicolas Ghesquière will present his Louis Vuitton Women’s Pre-Fall 2024 Collection live from Shanghai on Thursday, April 18th at 7 pm CST.

VERSACE JEANS COUTURE

METROPOLITAN NOCTURNES

2024.04.15

Drawing inspiration from the evocative work of Philip-Lorca DiCorcia, Metropolitan Nocturnes – the new Versace Jeans Couture campaign – tells the intertwined lives of four distinct individuals. Each character navigates the interaction born from the energy of Miami and their own inner landscapes.

FASHION

HIGH&LOW

2024.03.13

Through a series of exclusive interviews, Kevin Macdonald sheds new light on the creative genius of John Galliano, from his prodigious student days at Central St. Martins in London to his tenure at Dior, culminating in the 2011 incident. A kaleidoscopic portrait of one of the greatest cultural icons of the 2000s.

COLLECTION

Exceptional Frenchness

2024.03.12

Hedi Slimane perfectly balances the refined with the casual. The tweed riding jackets reinvent the Celine codes, while romantic trenches lighten the spaces of Salle Pleyel.

SAINT LAURENT

MASCULINE GRACE

2024.03.06

Anthony Vaccarello revisits classic menswear with a contemporary twist. The suits are roomy, soft, detached from the body, often in lightweight and sheer fabrics, sometimes layered. Saint Laurent’s georgette and satin are enveloped in a shadowy color palette.