MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

WAYS OF LOOKING

2023.03.08

Text by Lucrezia Sgualdino

LOOKING IS A WINDOW TO THINKING 

 

Miuccia Prada for Miu Miu presents the co-ed Fall Winter 23 collection featuring familiar garments that encapsulate gestures and movements around the figure.

The gaze is the characteristic and focal element of the latest Miu Miu collection; our eyes catch what we actually want to see, what we like, what we feel closest to our ideas and thoughts. The point of view becomes a full act of intervention, invention and reflection. Looking is an instinctive process, sight is one of the five senses that by human nature we have at our disposal, the one that helps us give a clear image to everything around us. The ways of seeing are different, defined by interest and attention, and can transform the perceived or the object itself. Looking here becomes a window to thinking, a personal space in which to make dialogue between what we directly acquire and what we can infer from perceptions.

“The point with this collection was to look at fashion from a personal point of view. I am always interested in how people look at things, their consideration.”

– Miuccia Prada

MIU MIU FW23.

The collection makes models and garments active protagonists. Workmanship is one of the tools to give direction to the viewer’s perception, to delineate aspects that want to be emphasized or, on the contrary, concealed. The shapes of the looks presented on the catwalk are exaggerated, the proportions are transformed by designs and cuts of colors and materials superimposed in multiple layers, all these aspects merge with the body itself, which becomes a fundamental element for the aesthetic rendering of each combination. Alongside the infinite layers of fabrics there are transparencies and mini-lengths that are unmistakably sensual and feminine, as well as linear and elongated silhouettes that skillfully mix elements taken from completely different wardrobe inspirations: the brand’s archive is the main protagonist, alternating with sporty or athleisure inspired garments and essentials that catalyze the attention of those seated a few meters from the catwalk. The technique and materialization practically change the way of reading and seeing the garments themselves, as does the wide color palette that varies from cold shades such as white, black, grey, blue and military green, to warm and intense colors such as purple, antique pink, burgundy and yellow. Among the accessories, several variations are proposed for bags and shoes. The Miu Wander hobo in matelassé nappa leather is presented in different sizes and colors, the bowling bags are in smooth or matelassé leather with front embossed lettering logo, the maxi shoulder bags feature long shoulder straps, and small rectangular bags are carried by hand with important key rings. Footwear, on the other hand, includes three variants: the iconic low heeled moccasins with a tapered silhouette are presented here in multiple color variants and revisited with fine buckles, the oxfords are found in a lace-up version or with metal fasteners, and finally the Sneakers 57 New Balance x Miu Miu collaboration returns in shades of white and blue.

MIU MIU FW23.

Miuccia Prada’s careful research gives a unique transformation of the garments both in terms of structure and placement on the body, telling their most intimate and familiar characteristics. All elements move around the figure: knee-length skirts and mini culottes, hooded sweatshirts and wide bomber jackets, masculine cut coats and short twin-sets. Robustness and fragility coexist in an unusual and interesting proposal of materials and fabrics, cotton and wool in different processes, leather revisited in mini-dresses but also in structured jackets and coats, tulle with polka dot prints or with floral appliqués, or even fur and velvet. The idea of looking also influences the very essence of combining pieces, overlapping clothes are in fact complex and the layers require a closer evaluation. Curiosity drives the mind to know and understand.

MIU MIU FW23.
MIU MIU FW23.

“This collection explores the idea of looking – the concept that, through close study, garments can be transformed both in there begin, and again in how they are worn.”

– Miuccia Prada

MIU MIU FW23.

It is interesting to try to understand how people deal with the natural process that is established between vanity and thought; experimentation is the key. The Palais d’Iena houses a series of raised walkways flanked by an installation by South Korean artist Geumhyng Jeong. Her work investigates the world of performance art by working on her body and its interaction with clothes. In fact, screens placed inside the space show a project created especially for the show. They attract the attention of the watcher’s attentive gaze and reveal the real need to be watched. Collecting this kaleidoscope of elements on which we need to meditate on, we realize how many possibilities of perception and reflection surround us. For Miuccia Prada, the défilé is a true “invitation to reconsider”.

MIU MIU FW23, INSTALLATION BY GEUMHYUNG JEONG.

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