MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

STUDY OF A CHARACTER

2023.04.11

The Miu Miu FW23 collection told through the intimate stories and intense gazes of the models: Guen Fiore captures and shows their all-round beauty in the show backstage. 

Miuccia Prada explores the instinctive process of looking by investigating the different ways of seeing and the fact that the act of observing can transform the object of one’s attention. Miu Miu Fall Winter 23 collection focuses on the impressions of the beholder and the observed, proposing a personal and singular vision as a creative incipit. The brand approaches the point of view as an act of intervention and invention, where everyone reads what they see differently, developing distinct observations and reflections about it. Looking is a window for thinking: we pause on some details rather than others because of our gaze, which, even unconsciously gets more what it wants to see, stimulating our instincts to change the way we consider. Miuccia Prada while reflecting on the collection lets the instincts guide her, analyzing the gesture and giving importance to the expression of the models, to the feminine, and perhaps even ancient way of holding the bag resting on the crook of the bent arm, to the small obsessions, details and attitude. The clothes on the runway all look familiar, giving the audience the impression that they have already seen each garment individually, but changing the way they see and perceive them. Technique and materialization can actively change how we visually read garments and, consequently, how we understand them.

MIU MIU FW23 BACKSTAGE BY GUEN FIORE.
MIU MIU FW23 BACKSTAGE BY GUEN FIORE.

“There’s some excitement and sexiness there, but basically, I think we have to dress for thinking. And for starting fresh.”

– Miuccia Prada

During the runway show, the emotions of the models are not leaked, appearing almost detached, cold and serious, leaving the garments as the undisputed protagonists of the scene. The audience is invited to observe only the order and rigor of the runway, without pausing on the whirlwind of emotions that characterizes the moments before the exit on stage. Guen Fiore captures and shows the all-round beauty of backstage, through shots capable of telling a story with a powerful visual impact. The Italian photographer shows her personal vision of beauty by following the “study of a character” approach, portraying subjects without veils, unmasked, without putting limits on the body and on the emotions they feel. Guen depicts the disorder of the backstage by showing the models’ intimate moments and intense looks, giving the audience a chance to taste their feelings as well and deeply feel their relationship with the clothes seen on the runway. The lightness of the colorful tights and almost transparent skirts is contrasted with the square, oversized leather jackets, creating a difference in volume between the upper and lower body. The photographer narrates the models, captures their deep eyes that speak through the image and thanks to the clothes worn they manage to express themselves even more. Underwear take center stage in the looks in place of pants, in the same shades as cardigans and stockings: an image that expresses a feminine attitude, exploring how women deal with the connection between dress and thought. Guen Fiore transforms the chaos of the Miu Miu backstage into a profound story that initiates an endless dialogue between the model and the garment, restoring a clear perspective of the collection.

MIU MIU FW23 BACKSTAGE BY GUEN FIORE.
MIU MIU FW23 BACKSTAGE BY GUEN FIORE.

FASHION

Letter to the Future

2024.05.16

Elements such as deconstruction, asymmetry, and androgyny testify to the extraordinary influence of Yohji Yamamoto in contemporary fashion. The new exhibition at 10 Corso Como presents a journey of correspondences between the designer’s reflections on the sense of the future and a selection of archival garments aimed at overcoming the chronological dimension.

ANOTHER PIECE
OF ME

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In the latest Gucci Cruise 25 collection, craftsmanship and fashion become instruments of unity. Delicate pearl necklaces complement the creepers worn in the nightclubs of Soho and King’s Cross, transcending culture and shaping a new human vocabulary.

COLLECTION

ARMANI MARE

2024.05.09

The new Armani Mare collection brings the summer line to some of the world’s most renowned beach destinations; an immersive experience in summer atmospheres through turquoise colors and linen fabrics by Giorgio Armani.

NEWS

Aesthetics and Meaning

2024.05.09

The creative spark of the capsule between Oratio and Piero Piazzi arises from the most deeply rooted principles of Made in Italy. Imagined with maniacal quality and craftsmanship, it was presented at Via Santo Spirito 22 in Milan to celebrate the subtle art of dressing.

NEWS

Reawakening Fashion

2024.05.08

The Costume Institute of the MET presents exclusively the exhibition Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion. In the exhibition spaces designed by Leong Leong, more than two hundred garments from four different centuries serve as a metaphor for the fragility of the creative universe.