MANIFESTO

#62

NEW MODERN REALISM

STUDY OF A CHARACTER

2023.04.11

The Miu Miu FW23 collection told through the intimate stories and intense gazes of the models: Guen Fiore captures and shows their all-round beauty in the show backstage. 

Miuccia Prada explores the instinctive process of looking by investigating the different ways of seeing and the fact that the act of observing can transform the object of one’s attention. Miu Miu Fall Winter 23 collection focuses on the impressions of the beholder and the observed, proposing a personal and singular vision as a creative incipit. The brand approaches the point of view as an act of intervention and invention, where everyone reads what they see differently, developing distinct observations and reflections about it. Looking is a window for thinking: we pause on some details rather than others because of our gaze, which, even unconsciously gets more what it wants to see, stimulating our instincts to change the way we consider. Miuccia Prada while reflecting on the collection lets the instincts guide her, analyzing the gesture and giving importance to the expression of the models, to the feminine, and perhaps even ancient way of holding the bag resting on the crook of the bent arm, to the small obsessions, details and attitude. The clothes on the runway all look familiar, giving the audience the impression that they have already seen each garment individually, but changing the way they see and perceive them. Technique and materialization can actively change how we visually read garments and, consequently, how we understand them.

MIU MIU FW23 BACKSTAGE BY GUEN FIORE.
MIU MIU FW23 BACKSTAGE BY GUEN FIORE.

“There’s some excitement and sexiness there, but basically, I think we have to dress for thinking. And for starting fresh.”

– Miuccia Prada

During the runway show, the emotions of the models are not leaked, appearing almost detached, cold and serious, leaving the garments as the undisputed protagonists of the scene. The audience is invited to observe only the order and rigor of the runway, without pausing on the whirlwind of emotions that characterizes the moments before the exit on stage. Guen Fiore captures and shows the all-round beauty of backstage, through shots capable of telling a story with a powerful visual impact. The Italian photographer shows her personal vision of beauty by following the “study of a character” approach, portraying subjects without veils, unmasked, without putting limits on the body and on the emotions they feel. Guen depicts the disorder of the backstage by showing the models’ intimate moments and intense looks, giving the audience a chance to taste their feelings as well and deeply feel their relationship with the clothes seen on the runway. The lightness of the colorful tights and almost transparent skirts is contrasted with the square, oversized leather jackets, creating a difference in volume between the upper and lower body. The photographer narrates the models, captures their deep eyes that speak through the image and thanks to the clothes worn they manage to express themselves even more. Underwear take center stage in the looks in place of pants, in the same shades as cardigans and stockings: an image that expresses a feminine attitude, exploring how women deal with the connection between dress and thought. Guen Fiore transforms the chaos of the Miu Miu backstage into a profound story that initiates an endless dialogue between the model and the garment, restoring a clear perspective of the collection.

MIU MIU FW23 BACKSTAGE BY GUEN FIORE.
MIU MIU FW23 BACKSTAGE BY GUEN FIORE.

Collection

DEMNA’S AMERICAN DREAM

2023.12.05

Balenciaga presents the Fall 2024 collection in Los Angeles for the first time, featuring oversized shorts and sweatshirts, as well as wedding dresses by Cristóbal Balenciaga with a grunge interlude. Demna reminds us once again that many things can coexist together.

MIU MIU

Holiday Gifting Collection

2023.12.04

Made of embellished dresses, eyewear and embroidered velvet slippers, Miu Miu Holiday Gifting Collection celebrates private space and the precious moment of holiday.

PREFALLMAN24

TRANSCENDENT SPIRIT OF TRAVEL

2023.12.01

Louis Vuitton presents the first Pre-Fall Men’s Collection in Hong Kong, where a mix of local tradition blends with multicultural influences. Pharrell Williams sails in the wake of the sailors, and together with them, he is influenced by the moon and the stars by embarking on new horizons.

COLLECTION

Rick Owens + Moncler

2023.11.30

Rick Owens + Moncler present the creation of a Sleep Pod, a soundproof steel capsule ready to accommodate two people. In its regenerative and relaxing function, the unprecedented architecture houses fascinating and conceptual garments characterized by maximum leisure comfort.

Exhibition

Sculpting the Senses

2023.11.29

Iris van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses is the exhibition that pays tribute to one of the most dynamic and interdisciplinary designers in contemporary fashion system. The Musée des Arts Décoratifs hosts an immersive journey through a singular and hybrid universe punctuated by the designer’s research and experiments.