Miuccia Prada explores the instinctive process of looking by investigating the different ways of seeing and the fact that the act of observing can transform the object of one’s attention. Miu Miu Fall Winter 23 collection focuses on the impressions of the beholder and the observed, proposing a personal and singular vision as a creative incipit. The brand approaches the point of view as an act of intervention and invention, where everyone reads what they see differently, developing distinct observations and reflections about it. Looking is a window for thinking: we pause on some details rather than others because of our gaze, which, even unconsciously gets more what it wants to see, stimulating our instincts to change the way we consider. Miuccia Prada while reflecting on the collection lets the instincts guide her, analyzing the gesture and giving importance to the expression of the models, to the feminine, and perhaps even ancient way of holding the bag resting on the crook of the bent arm, to the small obsessions, details and attitude. The clothes on the runway all look familiar, giving the audience the impression that they have already seen each garment individually, but changing the way they see and perceive them. Technique and materialization can actively change how we visually read garments and, consequently, how we understand them.
“There’s some excitement and sexiness there, but basically, I think we have to dress for thinking. And for starting fresh.”
During the runway show, the emotions of the models are not leaked, appearing almost detached, cold and serious, leaving the garments as the undisputed protagonists of the scene. The audience is invited to observe only the order and rigor of the runway, without pausing on the whirlwind of emotions that characterizes the moments before the exit on stage. Guen Fiore captures and shows the all-round beauty of backstage, through shots capable of telling a story with a powerful visual impact. The Italian photographer shows her personal vision of beauty by following the “study of a character” approach, portraying subjects without veils, unmasked, without putting limits on the body and on the emotions they feel. Guen depicts the disorder of the backstage by showing the models’ intimate moments and intense looks, giving the audience a chance to taste their feelings as well and deeply feel their relationship with the clothes seen on the runway. The lightness of the colorful tights and almost transparent skirts is contrasted with the square, oversized leather jackets, creating a difference in volume between the upper and lower body. The photographer narrates the models, captures their deep eyes that speak through the image and thanks to the clothes worn they manage to express themselves even more. Underwear take center stage in the looks in place of pants, in the same shades as cardigans and stockings: an image that expresses a feminine attitude, exploring how women deal with the connection between dress and thought. Guen Fiore transforms the chaos of the Miu Miu backstage into a profound story that initiates an endless dialogue between the model and the garment, restoring a clear perspective of the collection.
