MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

SEOUL IN MOVEMENT

2023.04.30

Louis Vuitton meets Seoul through an ever-changing tale, where the movement of the city is reflected in the collection, young and contemporary.

The models enter the catwalk with a quick step, recalling the frenzy and speed of the city where the Louis Vuitton Pre Fall 2023 fashion show takes place: the South Korean capital, Seoul. On the Jamsugyo Bridge, the incredible French history meets the modern metropolis, creating a futuristic, almost surreal atmosphere. The collection is an endless story of passages that tells the public the long journey from idea to image, from memory to innovation, showing a creative flow that traces back and forth the foundations of the brand itself. Louis Vuitton’s tradition in the creation of travel accessories is now transformed into a desire to give a new look to the essential elements of the Maison, overwhelmed by the incessant movement of the city, which inspired Nicolas Guesquière. The first look crossing the bridge walks resolutely against the strong wind, transferring to the observer a sense of confidence, determination and modernity that will accompany him throughout the show. An electric blue patent leather windbreaker opens the show, paired with a leather skirt and a black ankle boot with a platform sole: elements from different worlds that in Seoul find the right balance to tell the story of a collection in constant mutation, like the context that surrounds it.

LOUIS VUITTON PRE-FALL 2023.

Flawless savoir-faire that remains open to comparison. The Pre Fall 2023 collection goes from one side of the imagination to the other.

The French Maison narrates the journey through jackets that recall the world of motorbikes, bright colours such, as vibrant red, and dynamic shapes. Entire leather suits hugging the body are followed by light trousers and quilted miniskirts, making space between vertiginous necklines of total logo bodysuit. Different shades of browns and greys take their place on the catwalk, colouring elegant suits and lace tops, large furs on mini-dresses and jumpers with oversize shoulders paired with patent leather midi skirts. The movement of the water flowing under the bridge is transferred onto the clothes, creating a high play of proportions and layering that reaches its climax at the end of the show: long plush waistcoats are worn on fluid, pleated dresses that sway with the passing wind and emphasise the waist. Louis Vuitton’s mutating tale ends with oversized shirts, embellished with beads and worn over soft, loose trousers.

 

The key accessory for the collection is the belt: the initial looks feature a high leather band with a large clasp that resembles the shape of a padlock; while the final looks are cinched at the waist by a thin strap from which a row of metal flowers elegantly cascade down the lower part of the silhouette. The bags alternate between maxi sizes, such as the one-handled sack, and padded mini baguettes, paired with aggressively shaped, futuristic sunglasses.

LOUIS VUITTON PRE-FALL 2023.
LOUIS VUITTON PRE-FALL 2023.

A collection that is itself in mutation.

The Pre Fall 2023 collection reflects the young and contemporary society, defined by a constantly changing character, which adapts quickly to changes, surrounded by modern and eclectic cities. Louis Vuitton’s elegance and timeless nature find stability in the movement, particularly in Seoul, where even the Jamsugyo Bridge becomes a character. For the occasion, it is transformed by Squid Game director Hwang Dong-Hyuk, who collaborates with Louis Vuitton as a creative consultant and decides to involve this imposing architectural structure in a play of color and light, projecting the work of the French Maison directly into the future.

LOUIS VUITTON PRE-FALL 2023.

FASHION

HIGH&LOW

2024.03.13

Through a series of exclusive interviews, Kevin Macdonald sheds new light on the creative genius of John Galliano, from his prodigious student days at Central St. Martins in London to his tenure at Dior, culminating in the 2011 incident. A kaleidoscopic portrait of one of the greatest cultural icons of the 2000s.

COLLECTION

Exceptional Frenchness

2024.03.12

Hedi Slimane perfectly balances the refined with the casual. The tweed riding jackets reinvent the Celine codes, while romantic trenches lighten the spaces of Salle Pleyel.

SAINT LAURENT

MASCULINE GRACE

2024.03.06

Anthony Vaccarello revisits classic menswear with a contemporary twist. The suits are roomy, soft, detached from the body, often in lightweight and sheer fabrics, sometimes layered. Saint Laurent’s georgette and satin are enveloped in a shadowy color palette.

FASHION

Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind

2024.03.06

Miu Miu delves into our individual life lexicons. The collection unfolds with a diverse array of interpretations of traditional uniforms and attire; surgeons, assistants, teachers, and waitresses parade down the runway. Miuccia Prada’s dark youth is captured in its tight proportions and contrasting hues. A futuristic prelude sets the stage, introducing viewers to the complexities of human memory.

COLLECTION

A DECADE-LONG ADVENTURE

2024.03.06

IT’S A BEAUTIFUL JOURNEY. I’M CONTINUING IT.

 

A clear retrospective in Nicolas Ghesquière’s work for Louis Vuitton is the collection staged for Fall-Winter 2024-2025. A decade of fashion that recalls strong emotions, reflections and feelings.