MANIFESTO

#62

NEW MODERN REALISM

LOEWE PRE-COLLECTION SS24

2023.10.26

Text by Lucrezia Sgualdino

WAIT—IS THAT WHO I THINK IT IS?

 

Designer Jonathan Anderson chooses for LOEWE to carry on an ongoing dialogue with photographer Juergen Teller, telling for the occasion a vision prismatically composed of individual characters with stories in common.

The campaign is the new chapter in the collaboration carried out between the two artists, in the shots taken for the Spring Summer 24 pre-collection to star are a series of transversal faces and talents that make up an extraordinarily ad hoc cast chosen by the Maison. The personalities of these big names are intrinsic to different creative fields, ranging from film to music, from art to fashion. The actresses are Maggie Smith, Dakota fanning, and Greta Lee, while the male representation from film is left to Josh O’Connor and Mike Faist, whom we will soon see together alongside Zendaya in the highly anticipated The Challengers, a film by Luca Guadagnino, another friend of the brand and Anderson himself. In addition to British artist Rachel Jones, we also find model Fei Fei Sun, and musician TAEYONG, who along with O’Connor is also the brand’s Global Ambassador. The idea behind this artistic representation of shots with the aim of telling the brand’s aesthetic and narrative is craftsmanship, LOEWE’s identifying and characteristic trait. In fact, the images are assembled through skillful research work, torn cleanly, superimposed on white backgrounds and photographed again. One can thus speak of meta-images, which acquire a much deeper artistic meaning, a sculptural feel and a sense of materiality that allows the true values and essence of the brand to be transferred.

DAKOTA FANNING PHOTOGRAPHED BY JUERGEN TELLER FOR LOEWE PRE-COLLECTION SS24 CAMPAIGN.
MAGGIE SMITH.
MIKE FAIS.
JOSH O'CONNOR.
GRETA LEE.

The vision presented is that characteristic of Juergen Teller, representing imperfection as the highest absolute perfection. Aspect that is perceived by the provocative and detached expression that is sought in the gazes of the protagonists, but also in the domestic but rather bare and abandoned settings that are typical of his photography. There is a red brick wall, a lego patio, a room with creased wallpaper, chairs stacked in the corner of the room, an empty swimming pool. Teller’s lens directly and truthfully captures all the elements of the collection. LOEWE bags, including the Classic and Edge versions of the Puzzle, the Squeeze, the Pebble bucket, the Paseo, and the Fold shopper. The most distinctive of the accessory offerings is the Puzzle Fold made in collaboration with Kyoto-based ceramic studio Suna Fujita, which features the animal world characteristic of the creative duo’s work on the bag: inlays depicting animal lines and plant roots. The collection is identified here in a selection of repurposed classic pieces, from simple sweaters to jeans, from tops to denim skirts, from shearling coats to recognizable leather garments, all contributing to the idea of representing a clear but at the same time distorted realism.

 

Discover more on loewe.com.

MAGGIE SMITH PHOTOGRAPHED BY JUERGEN TELLER FOR LOEWE PRE-COLLECTION SS24 CAMPAIGN.
LOEWE SQUEEZE BAG.
FEI FEI SUN.
GRETA LEE, LOEWE PASEO BAG.
LOEWE PUFFER GOYA BAG.
LOEWE PEBBLE BUCKET BAG.
MAGGIE SMITH, LOEWE TOTE PUZZLE FOLD BAG.
RACHEL JONES.
LOEWE PUZZLE BAG.

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