MANIFESTO

#62

NEW MODERN REALISM

KIM JONES

2021.09.22

Interview PAMELA GOLBIN
Images MALICK BODIAN

Fendi WW Creative Director Kim Jones in conversation with Pamela Golbin, between Rome and London.

Calm, cool and collected that’s how Kim Jones, the fashion world’s new made-in-Britain virtuoso, greets me on the phone from London. Jones asserts an extravagant but wearable vision that goes beyond established genres bringing an innovative spirit to customize luxury for all. A world traveler, Jones is known as a street-style connoisseur constantly inspired by streetwear subcultures and their musical energy to reimagine tailoring and the modern wardrobe. Kim Jones, at just 47, holds the unprecedented double title of Artistic Director for both Dior Men’s collections in Paris and womenswear at Fendi in Rome.  

[PG] For your first Fendi Couture collection presented in January, you used this wonderful quote about clothes from Virginia Woolf, “They change our view of the world and the world’s view of us.” What’s your view of the world at the moment?
[KJ]  It’s in quite a tricky place, I would say. I’m doing these intensive travel periods, going to Europe, and I come back to London to be very quiet on my own because we have to quarantine in the UK. So it’s quite a strange moment.
[PG]  You are showing a collection to be shown in a couple of days.
[KJ] Yes, I’m rather excited to show Fendi Couture collection on Thursday.
[PG] You seem rather unfazed…
[KJ] Well, it is a lot of work at the moment but I really enjoy it and I like making people feel a bit more joyous after quite a rough time in the world. I am feeling optimistic about the immediate future and being able to socialize properly. I thought it was a nice moment to share that.

Kim Jones portrait by Casper Sejersen.

[KJ] Well, it is a lot of work at the moment but I really enjoy it and I like making people feel a bit more joyous after quite a rough time in the world. I am feeling optimistic about the immediate future and being able to socialize properly. I thought it was a nice moment to share that.

[PG]  What do you think people are looking for in clothes today?
[KJ]  People are looking for a sense of reality in a certain way and that makes Couture even more otherworldly. I treat Couture and Ready-to-Wear quite separately, but in either case, I really listen to all the women that I know or work with. I am constantly looking to address the needs in their lives and to make them more independent in their multiple roles. The movement and freedom of things are quite interesting to me.

[PG] For the Autumn-Winter 2021 collection, you are paying tribute to the Fendi house codes and the women who embody its legacy. What first struck you?
[KJ] So my first Couture show was England to Rome, and with this Ready-to-Wear collection, it is England in Rome where we start. What struck me most was Fendi’s dedication to craftmanship and that was the starting point of my inspiration. I was really looking at how to build a collection around the incredible skills of the house. I was also quite attentive to the Fendi women’s love of tailoring from Delfina’s (Delettrez) perfectly cut jackets to Silvia’s (Venturini Fendi) daily uniform. Bell sleeves are made of washed mink and a shirt jacket has a bonded mink interior. The jackets are featherlight through a suspended construction and Karligraphy monograms are laser cut into suede. With this collection, I wanted to celebrate the Fendi women as a powerful dynasty. Silvia and her daughter Delphine were both muses and also creative collaborators. They both do a brilliant job and were very inspiring.

 

Read more on September Issue 58.

Fendi FW21 by Malick Bodian.

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