Text by Francesca Fontanesi

Jonathan Anderson manipulates proportions, bringing to life cardigans and shorts with a bold spirit. Red permeates every detail of FW 24-25; it’s the image of intimate comfort and eccentric luxury simultaneously. In this collection, Stanley Kubrick and Arthur Schnitzler are everywhere.

Jonathan Anderson plays with dimensions, inflating cardigans and shorts with eccentric satin linings that protrude like large trims composed of various types of borders. But he also plays with paradox, on the concept of oxymoron, bringing the clash between surface reality and underground reality with a very specific inspiration in mind. Velvet blazers hide beneath oversized shoulders and oversized sweaters; shirts, too, have sleeves that move almost gigantically. Grape-colored cardigans, adorned with pink padded lapels gracefully protruding from the wearer’s chest, embody the comfort of garments reserved for private wear. Here, Anderson opens the doors to Kubrickian cinema: from the masked ball scene in Eyes Wide Shut comes the emphasis on red and all its variations, appearing in FW 24-25 both in details like gloves and asymmetric pins, and in extraordinarily accessorized total looks, such as a simple white shirt adorned with an additional pair of elongated sleeves. Color permeates the entire presentation, including garments printed with Christiane Kubrick’s paintings on knitwear and on three different long dresses; other pieces encapsulate the portrait of the cat Polly, a potted plant with a barcode still on the tub, and the interior of a car.

“I’ve never looked at a film as a starting point for a collection before. I became obsessed with Christine Kubrick and how she painted most of the artworks in her husband’s film.”

–Jonathan Anderson

Weird and perversely domestic, plush and padded, everything is off.



While the collection is rich in colors – black, yellow, purple, gray, camel, green, brown, pink, white, and gold – JW Anderson’s runway is a dark spectacle. Arthur Schnitzler’s 1925 Double Dream is everywhere, and JW Anderson stages various references to the work through vivid yet essential representations for the collection’s imagery. A clear reference is made to Paula on Red, the painting that dominates the Zieglers’ bathroom and captures the nudity of the prostitute Mandy. The tailored suits are provocative and almost fetishistic, adorned with stylized Christmas stars. An oversized red velvet evening jacket for men becomes a parody of formal power, complete with cork slides with ghillie tassels and shirts with bibs. JW Anderson’s distinctive touch, characterized by recurring preferences such as shorts, finds expression in high heels decorated with tassels and structured loafers. At this point, upholstery and compositions transform into clothing; the reality around us becomes ambivalent, while the sounds of Jessica Dannheisser and Tom Boddy transport us into the Anderson Universe.



An elegant sense of power pervades the latest Saint Laurent runway. There’s a duality that merges elegance and provocation, a carnal convergence between garment and body. Revisiting Yves’s codes, blouses, shirts, ultra-tight skirts, and silk dresses culminate in a powerful aesthetic imagery.

Creative freedom


A collection that rethinks the concept of fashion as a manifestation of power and full representation of creativity, investigating the historical legacy and future of femininity. The looks in Dior’s FW24 collection convey the radiant power of a pluralistic, autonomous and versatile femininity, reactivating that key moment of creative freedom of which Miss Dior is the emblem.


Impalpable Visions


Armani opts for a palette of jewel tones and a novel emphasis on black. The attention to embroidered details marries simple elegance, while a message of poetry and hope shines through the outlines of winter flowers.

Jil Sander

Minimal frills, maximum impact


The FW24 collection by Jil Sander is abundant in rounded silhouettes and soft lines, yet with character. The balance between form and comfort fills the enveloping coats and sartorial details: each piece reflects a constant pursuit of effortless sophistication.




The Fall Winter 2024 collection by Maximilian Davis is an interpretation of the 1920s through a modern lens, particularly inspiring as it offers a new perspective on the elegance and rebellion of that era.