MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

GRASPING THE FORMLESS

2023.09.30

Text by Lucrezia Sgualdino

Issey Miyake Spring Summer 2024 collection tells of a modern, sincere woman inspired by distant, yet pure worlds and feelings.

A flag flies in the sky. What does it look like?

 

 

A light wind, 

The flowing water, 

The sparkle of light, 

The sway of a flame.

 

 

Like everything that is part of nature, 

The human body changes – is constantly changing, And so does the mind.

Listen carefully to their dialogue. 

 

 

What is concealed, ambiguous and indefinite, Becomes evident: 

Forms that speak and resonate with the ever-evolving human being. 

They should always be vivid, they should always be beautiful.

These are the lines with which the text presenting the collection opens, transporting us to the exact atmosphere that the brand has decided to make us experience during the fashion show. An aseptic environment, which hosts an interdisciplinary sensory experience in perfect dialogue with the proposals of the themes of this last season. Fragments of pleated washi paper, made of natural fibers, float in the air and recall that dynamic and fluid look of the covers on the runway. These fabric panels transform their shapes by interacting with the cadenced rhythm of the models’ steps. The essence of this is the close relationship between a piece of cloth and the body of the wearer. The first looks are abstract, unexpected and essential, these slowly evolve into far more structured, almost formal elements, and more intense colors. The collection is precisely meant to represent natural elements that do not have definite forms, such as wind and light. Fashion cannot transcend from the poetic aspect of storytelling, it is good that the practical, tangible and real aspect is therefore juxtaposed with an ephemeral and fortuitous vision of purely aspirational thought. The idea that Issey Miyake has always pursued has been the search in terms of technique, fabrics and colors, for an innate fluidity in his clothing proposal. This time, Satoshi Kondo pays tribute to the late great designer by presenting a modern collection composed of simple and sincere forms in dialogue with the wearer.

Ambiguous is the first series, made of knit that reflects and respects the materiality of the twisted cotton yarn in one direction only. This allows for the natural creation of a soft drape with as many folds that wrap around the body and gently embrace it. The construction has a tubular shape, which is almost ambiguous but versatile, in fact allowing it to adapt to any physicality. The second section is called Twining and inspired by the movement of the flag waving in the sky. The material used is light but firm, becoming a thin and voluminous texture obtained through a special weaving technique. Then there is the Light Leak printed sequence in which shapes are blurred and colors fade. The silhouettes are simple and the clothes made with the minimum of stitching. The pattern represented is the result of the exposure of a camera roll, with grainy photographs enlarged, replicated and still visible in the pattern represented. Enveloping, on the other hand, is a line with a tubular structure, designed with a single piece of fabric. The material used is shiny and elastic, enhancing the depth of the draping lines and adapting to the body, creating original shapes for each. Pressed fabric is the star of Fixed in time, from the inspiration of movement unique shapes are born, the result of flattening a three-dimensional curvature. The light and stretchy material gives a unique fit. Twisted is made by twisting the fabric, going to create a natural twisting around the body, it is composed of a mix of natural and stretch fibers. The last section, the Shaped membrane, features exaggerated, voluminous silhouettes; the fabric is always the same, becoming a second skin and lending itself to oversized volumes and comfortable fits.

The element of sharing, collaborating, and connecting has always been very clear in the inspiration of Issey Miyake’s story. In this case, in addition to remaining an intangible concept, it becomes practical. The concept in question is that of moving barefoot, completing that authentic experience of physical sinuosity that Satoshi Kondo’s creations remind us of. The partner chosen for this fusion of technique and technology is New Balance, with which the MT10 model was made, reproposed in a style and color palette that fully reflect the collection for next spring-summer. So once again it is the focus on comfort, simplicity and the desire to tell a clear inspiration from distant origins. Designer Satoshi Kondo tells of shapes that resonate in constant evolution just like the body of the human being who wears it, dialoguing with visionary techniques and incredible natural fabrics.

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