MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

Complex simplicity

2024.01.19

Issey Miyake’s radical and serene humanism is reflected in the weighted volumes and fluid forms, the result of tireless sartorial research. Through the works of Ronan Bouroullec, hems and stitches elongate to harmoniously envelop the male body. Dynamic lines erase the distance between the conceptual and the concrete.

A series of expansive short-sleeved white tops paired with pants of the same color serve as a canvas for green and orange graphics, while earthy tones embrace the shoulder seams: the ivory space of the original artwork transforms into the very shape of the garments, and the nuances of the pleats enhance their deep colors and delicate brushstrokes. For this season, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake has directed its functional approach towards men’s clothing, first launched in 2013. Asymmetries abound, while hems protrude amidst the strokes of pink and blue by Ronan Bouroullec. Bouroullec, who uses Japanese brushes with felt tips resulting in meticulous and delicate strokes, becomes an accomplice in a new meditative style: the cushion coat folds onto itself, curling up into a pocket that resembles a cushion. On it, the colors of the print stay true to the original, but when worn, the color scheme changes. A raspberry-colored jacket pairs with a brown buttoned shirt; a Bordeaux top and a salmon turtleneck rest on a pair of orange pleated pants, all meticulously pleated. Presented at the Palais de Tokyo, the FW24 Immersed in the Wilds of Creativity collection explores the translation of sources of inspiration into the creation of clothing, reflecting on the relationship between the concept and its actual realization. The interpretation of elements goes beyond their transformation into prints and patterns; the simply designed shirts move lightly along the curves of the body thanks to the natural fabric. True to its Japanese ethos, the forms are purely geometric when still and reveal their volume only when worn.

The artwork itself serves as an ingredient to be used for the design and realization of the collection, giving rise to a harmonious creative process.

The knitted patterns are woven with multicolored threads and feature openings that allow them to be worn in different ways, while the lightweight fabrics on which Ronan Bouroullec’s works are reproduced employ separate plate screen printing for each shade, respecting the depth of color. The weighted volumes and fluid forms conceived by the collection are designed to move with the male body; the silhouettes are never static because movement, the fifth temporal dimension of fashion creations, is always part of the process. The result of tireless sartorial research, each model is crafted to enhance the vivid colors and organic shapes of Issey Miyake‘s work. The embroideries are characterized by a thread slightly outside the outlines of the original motifs, emphasizing their dynamism. In the All Over series designed by Ronan Bouroullec, the design is marked by countless lines that create a pattern in which one feels the impression of being able to immerse oneself, eliminating the distance. Sleeves, shoulders, and hems are elongated so that the garments can be wrapped around the body: despite their ancestral and almost primitive forms in their relentless purity, it is impossible not to give them a technological twist. Just like in the printed version, these voluminous pieces can be rolled up or left open for greater freedom of movement. The garments become increasingly complex, integrating with each other. Clothes to hide in or find rest within. Scarves play with a game of metamorphosis, and Chelsea boots leave the ankles exposed to allow the wind to penetrate between the folds.

DIOR

LIVE STREAMING

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Follow the live stream of the #DiorHauteCoutureFW24 show.

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