MANIFESTO

#63

CHANGE OF SPACE

DESIRE AND DISORDER

2023.03.03

Text by Guia Ortolani

The apotheosis of what Isabel Marant has always done at its best, and continues to do. A collection under the sign of the brand’s sexy casualness, alternating daily wear with the sparkling glow of evening dresses.

A stellar cast of catwalk icons and rocking current faces walked the show at the Palais Royal gardens: Natasha Poly, Liya Kebede, Anna Ewers, Caroline Trentini, Liu Wen, Jessica Stam, Malgosia Bela, Kasia Struss, Anna Selezneva, Karmen Pedaru, Sasha Pivovarova, Imaan Hammam, Irina Shayk, are just a few of them all…

Isabel Marant speaks of “desire and disorder,” where desire is never shouted, in the definition of a French woman who is sexy and rebellious. A desire to cuddle up wrapped in comfortable knits and cocoon coats, and the disorder of a kind of irreverence and a sensual and unconventional attitude.

ISABEL MARANT FW23.

“It is sexy, but in a subtle way, as always for me, without ever overdoing it. It is very cozy and reassuring, with a hint of irreverence.”

– Isabel Marant

Leather is the protagonist of a show where oversize knitwear meets 80s-style coats, voluminous blazers with squared shoulders, and the brand’s signature light and flowy dresses, also presented  in new variations. Metallic zips give breath to the collection, on knit and leather dresses, closing jackets and their pockets, blending with the garments as precious details that emphasize a neckline or cut a dress. Graphic cuts shape new cleavages, while plays of transparency subtly reveal parts of the body. Some fluttering sleeveless dresses are paired with turtleneck t shirts with the same print. The overlappings concept is applied both to ton sur ton, with different shades, and to layers of garments in different materials, where soft and feminine fabrics contrast with the thickness and heaviness of sweaters, with dyed denim, wool and warm shearlings; these last are introduced in a variety of shapes and lengths, as vests and long coats, and in men’s versions too.

ISABEL MARANT FW23.

Isabel Marant’s creative proposal for this fall winter also includes full jumpsuits in denim and leather, wrap dresses with cut-outs at the chest and waist, and a long shiny black raincoat; while men’s looks are alternately comfy for the day, with jeans, sweaters, trench coats, blazers and shearlings, and rock for evening, through leather jackets and silver pants.

Boots are another emblematic piece of Marant aesthetic, both mini and maxi, in many colors and materials. Pointed leather ankle ones and maxi that exceed knee height are the key pieces here, and characterized in their turn by different zips. The heeled sandals in a variety of shades feature an oblique band on the foot instep that seem to amalgamate with leggings creating a whole effect.

ISABEL MARANT FW23.

The color palette, initially minimal, on natural tones of beige, sand and brown, then explores yellows and shades of magenta, before concluding with black and silver.

The show ends with a glittering evening that mixes textures, embroidery, lurex velvet, and oversized, fitted, cropped volumes.
In the background resonates the soundtrack performed live by DJ Gabber Eleganza and Lulu Van Trapp, intoxicating the crowd. A unique creation composed on the idea of desire and disorder, this season’s mantra.

ISABEL MARANT FW23.

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