MANIFESTO

#65

MUSE TWENTY FANZINE

INHABITING TIME

2025.01.27

Text by Lucrezia Sgualdino

The anatomy of an allure

 

The Hermès Men’s Winter 25 collection tells the spirit of the times through decisive glimpses of winter. Each garment expresses its essence through dynamic and architectural lines.

Classical elements are taken up by an archaic abecedary that is studied and revisited. Modern attention allows graphic and urban features to emerge, composed of promise and surprise. The architectural vision is taken up in the construction of the garments, as well as in the patterns and geometries of the color designs. Each garment fully expresses its essence and presence within a strongly textured collection.

 

The spirit of time runs throughout the défilé, lines take shape in gestures, in new ways of wearing elements, coming to describe a disciplined informality. The new and the eternal are pivotal points in the narrative of an entire wardrobe that becomes confident, decisive and engaging. Details make the silhouette even more interesting, as do the patterns and colours that run through them. Style surrenders nothing to function.

It is a collection about everyday life, warm and cozy, understated and refined, never shouty or bulky. Coats and jackets have different lengths; shirts are classic and straight, or with button-down collars and patch pockets, in wool, cotton poplin or spinnaker canvas. Knitwear returns throughout the collection, in different weights and colors, crew-neck or turtleneck, zippered or V-neck. The proposals are in cashmere, wool, or winter silk. Layers are another recurring element, with double volumes in jackets, or cardigans worn over light turtlenecks; short-sleeve overshirts also allow this dynamic effect of volumes and overlaps, with barely flared shapes. The tailored suit is presented in classic double-breasted or single-breasted lines, with narrow pants, but also in velvet, with wide pants and playful spirit jackets with double collars and lapels. Fur details on the detachable collars of outerwear dialogue with sheepskin details. Accessories are made of wool and leather. Balaclavas look like an extension of the neck of sweaters, they are worn around the face, or dropped on the neck like warm hoods, while the leather of the accessories is smoothed, the bags have maxi shapes, and are reminiscent of travel accessories; the shoes have important soles, but soft shapes that wrap around the foot and ankle.

The elegance of the Maison Hermès is filled each time with light lines, whispered inspirations that are never too intrusive. The vision of the upcoming Men’s Winter 25 collection is sharp, structured, and well thought out to accommodate a wide audience; the lines become soft, dynamic, and merge into each other. The style is clear, it is bold but also classical, it is reactionary but also conservative, it is unique and very well detailed. The research is innovative, timeless, it breaks away from any root logic of time, everything is casual and at the same time it emphasises the discipline. The personality of wearing garments with incredible finishes, with elements and details that tell the story of everyday life. A new equestrian geometry is what transpires behind the intention of the collection. It is a play between visible and invisible elements, between the inside and the outside, between the front and the back. The stark representation of the anatomy of an attraction. The true ability to inhabit one’s time.

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