Text by Lucrezia Sgualdino

Careful research and reflection on the brand’s original design, development, and planning declines in the construction of the Homme Plissé Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2024 collection.

Pleating technology is Issey Miyake’s signature element. The collection engages in an in-house refinement process that explores the quintessence of the brand. The result is a series of new garments declined in simply designed silhouettes and a range of fresh, harmonious colors. The proposal, made possible by the ingenuity and technologies employed, narrates a défilé of looks designed and made as products for everyday life and conveys the philosophy of Homme Plissé Issey Miyake. The show begins with a large roll of pleated paper being laid down in the gallery space of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. Once the garments inside the pleated roll are revealed, the design team dresses the models. By realistically and experientially incorporating part of the garment pleating process into the set design, the collection once again demonstrates the potential of this technology. It is filled with simple, often layered silhouettes, including skirts, shorts, jackets and pants, elements offered in eye-catching color palettes.

The Monthly Color series opens the catwalk with new color shades in fresh, soft and rich hues. The reference is to the natural world, inspired by the tones obtained by dyeing organic materials. Rectangle, on the other hand, refers to the very construction of the fabric; the silhouette becomes asymmetrical and the edges fall softly along the body. Abstract landscape prints are told in the Pitoresque line. Simple irregular geometric shapes illusorily tell dreamlike depictions of naturalistic landscapes. Translucent paints lend depth to bold colors that become symbols of strength and decisiveness. The new Horizon Pleats features horizontal pleating. The seemingly simple choice to change the direction of the pleats is the result of years of research and experimentation through the advanced technology the brand employs. With the movement of pressing steps on the runway, the garments bounce gently adding lightness to the silhouette. Instead, the wings of airplanes and birds are the starting point for Wing Coat. The back slit of the pieces literally looks like a wing being carried by the wind. The airy, comfortable fit is emphasized by the natural texture and light, stretchy fabric. The PL Ramie Shirt series, on the other hand, resembles the shape of a cape; it is the fabric here that gives softness to the drape. Edge Ensemble & Edge Coat Light, on the other hand, is built on a wide accordion pleat made from recycled polyester. The formal yet sophisticated ensemble emerges from the sheen of the material texture. As for accessories, this season’s proposal is the Like Loafer, which is inspired by formal. It is a loafer offered in elastic material with a casual and comfortable feel.

“For this season, we explored different ways of folding garments.”

– Homme Plissé Issey Miyake Team

Each garment in the process of making it is first cut and sewn, then pleated, this method is completely different from the conventional way of making a garment with pre-treated fabrics to achieve pleating. Although Issey Miyake has decided for the past six years to leave room for his collaborators, one can see in each collection the greatness of the man, creative and artist. He has managed to make pleating a trademark, encapsulating within such a distinctive and defining element all the experimentation and fundamental steps in the brand’s history.




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